To be fair, occasionally the recommendations are brilliant.  Most of the time however, they leave a lot to the imagination and more often than not very little change in your pocket. You end up rattling around the same old touristic hodgepodge, paying money for jam and schlepping through your well-earned holiday in a sheepish trance. By the time you’ve seen all the recommended places you’re ready to move onto the next destination because you feel indifferent about the current one.

Why?  Because you’ve only skimmed the surface and haven’t dug deep enough to experience the place in its fullest dimension. What do I mean by that?  I mean slowing down long enough to live as the locals live. To taste what they taste and to see what they see. That way you get to touch what’s beneath the surface.  You get to feel the heartbeat of the place.

Hence, without further ado, I hereby present my little black book of killer feel-good portals in Marseille – the unique, the quirky and the plain good. Enjoy!

Rest, Sleep and Dream

If you like to explore your new surroundings on foot, your temporary home away from home needs to have an element of the X-factor and it should be central (yet tucked away), so you won’t feel as though you’re living in a bland, cold and austere hotel metropolis.  Choose your accommodation as part of the whole experience and it can enhance your trip tenfold. All right. Let’s get you checked in so you can relax and prepare to explore your options for a cool aperitif before the sunset.

Romain and Pascal’s B&B offers an airy, luxurious apartment in the heart of Marseille, consisting of bedroom, lounge, bathroom and sunny terrace. It’s decorated in warm colors and Provencal knick-knacks and it sleeps 2 people for around €70 per night. In addition, there are 6 separate private apartments available for short-term rental (owned by various hosts), each one unique in style and décor. 

An example: Le Loft du Vieux Port is in the heart of the city’s most popular tourist area. The studio is bright and spacious with a mezzanine bedroom, lounge, kitchen and bathroom, conveniently located just a few steps from Marseille’s Old Port. The best part is the view as it sits on the top floor of an old stone building overlooking the historic Place aux Huiles and the colorful fishing boats in the harbor. Low season prices (October-April) are € 285 for a minimum of 3 nights €480 per week, €1650 per month. (Sleeps 4 people). Location: 33 rue Saint Saëns. Phone: + 33 (0) 6 77 94 34 50 contact@bnbromainpascal.com www.bnbromainpascal.com

There’s no way in the world you’d ever notice La Maison du Petit Canard, a typical 3-story house tucked away in the historic Panier district. The small studios, with kitchenette and dining area offer a true home away from home. Each room (4 in total), inspired by the French novelist, playwright and filmmaker Marcel Pagnol.

Breakfast on delicious homemade jams before you while away your days in this historic neighborhood and wander the maize of cobblestone streets peppered with artists who work on site. The owners Steffi and Youssef are more than happy to offer advice on where to go and what to see. You won’t need to worry about transport; you can walk to the Vieux Port in around 10 minutes. But best of all, it’s only €60 for a double room and a warm welcome. Location: 48 impasse Saint-François Phone: 33 (0) 4 91 91 40 31 http://maison.petit.canard.free.fr/

If you’d like to experience a little bit of Spain whilst visiting Marseille, Hotel Vertigo, inspired by the pensions Espanola could make you feel bewildered and slightly disoriented but it’s well worth it. Close to Gare St-Charles train station and the Old Port, it’s a totally unique concept hotel/hostel built for a new generation of traveler. The furniture and décor consists of antiques, flea-market finds and other eclectic treasures. Although bohemian in atmosphere, the place offers wireless Internet connection, breakfast, and a common lounge and kitchen area where you can make your own cup of coffee, write, chat and just hang out with other free spirits. The heart of the place is a quaint outdoor patio and bar geared towards socializing. You can sip pastis, philosophize and swap travel tales with other nonconformists. There are 18 rooms in total – charming and comfortable dorms as well as cozy deluxe rooms with balcony. Some rooms can accommodate up to 6 people. At €23.50 per person, per night, it is affordable and tres chic, attracting those who are seeking a unique experience in a trendy, urban setting. Location: 42 Traverse des Petites Maries Phone: +33 (0) 4 91 91 07 11 - http://www.hotelvertigo.fr/

Opening hours: Monday to Wednesday from 09:00 to 20:30, Thursday to Friday from 09:00 to 00:00. Saturday from 09:00 to 20:30 - Lunch formula is around €12. Dish of the day between 7 - €12 Location: 72 Boulevard des Dames Phone: + 33 (0) 4 95 09 65 13 

If a nice Cup of Tea is your cup of culture, you can’t miss this tiny institution located near the City Hall. A mix of adorable tearoom (including a gorgeous terrace) and literary café with a multitude of books lining its shelves. Their huge selection of teas (around 50) is served in large pots and just as well.  You’ll need the quantity in order to swish down all the delicious gourmet pies and tarts on offer. Looking for a good reason to brush up on your French? As it happens, this little tearoom, bookstore, and exhibition space for artists also hosts writing workshops and poetry nights. All that in just a few square meters of space. Très agréable! Location: 1 Rue Caisserie (near the Panier district) 

I literally stumbled on this place by accident.  The perfect bar with the best view in town. La Caravelle is a tucked away watering hole with a warm wooden interior overlooking the port.  And if you’re lucky enough to seize one of the four highly desirable tables on the tiny terrace, you’ll be celebrating in style with a million dollar view across the water to Notre Dame de la Garde. It does happen occasionally (the table vacancy) but you’ll have to be patient and watch the comings and goings (from inside) like a hawk. A difficult task at hand, I know, as you’ll be busy watching a whole lot more, like all those stylish locals indulging in fabulous mango mojitos (the house specialty) and feasting on saucisson, fromage and tapenade.  The music is a mix of Latin and jazz, with live music a couple of nights per week. I hardly need to tell you that the potential for romance with a view like that is almost guaranteed. Très romantique!

The entrance is pretty easy to miss (yes another one). You need to climb the stairs via the Hotel Bellevue entry. The bar is just past the reception area. Bonne chance! Location: 34 Quai du Port. Phone: +33 (0) 4 91 90 36 64 

Live To Eat (Beyond the Bouillabaisse)

Marseille is finally gathering speed and emerging as a culinary leader to be reckoned with.  When researching this article, this was by far the most difficult section to distill because of the massive amount of choice. Despite that, I think I’ve managed to pin down at least a couple of surprises. As for the rest that’s on offer; try and stay away from the obvious tourists traps around the harbor (Tip: If the restaurant is packed with French people, it’s usually good). Once you’ve worked that out, you can’t really go wrong. 

Une Table, au Sud would have to be the forerunner.  The honor is entirely due to chef Lionel Levy, an Alain Ducasse protégé, with whom he spent six years. Levy used to cook in Paris and London before deciding to venture south to inject some much-needed fresh blood into the local cuisine. This secret portal is right next to La Samaritaine brasserie. Once inside, just follow the spiral staircase, which leads to the elegant dining area on the first floor. The décor is simple and stylish with comfy chairs, parquetry floors, discreet lighting and crisp white cloth draped over generous tables. There is no outdoor seating but if you’re lucky enough to get a table near the window you’ll be spoiled by the most fabulous and unique view of the harbor. Everything is cooked fresh to order. The menu - which changes every two months according to the whims of the chef - is inspired by the local flavors of Provence and the Mediterranean Sea - with a tendency towards simplicity and plenty of attention to detail. 

No doubt the menu will change by the time you get there, but here’s a sample to tempt the taste buds…  Mouthwatering Nougat foie gras, with shallots and lemon seasoning served with warm brioche €24 and/or the tasty scallops and truffle carpaccio served with herb salad €38. Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner (around €150 for two people which includes wine and service charges). Location: 2 Quai de Port. Phone: +33 (0) 4 91 90 63 53 unetableausud@wanadoo.fr       www.unetableausud.com

What rhymes with innovation?

Le Grandes Tables de la Friche, located in the former wasteland of Belle de Mai, used to be a match factory - now converted into a massive cultural and artistic space. Guaranteed, this will be unlike any other dining experience you’ve ever had. The massive, industrial style space accommodates large groups of people. (300 seated and 600 en buffet). Want more? How about evening concerts and theme nights, whereby other cooks (professional or amateur) are invited to participate in the kitchen. Cabaret performances and interviews during aperitif time with popular radio personalities from Radio Grenouille (a super cool local radio station that hosts a vast menu of world music like no other). 

There’s a children’s activity room (Théatre Massalia), a music hall (Le Cabaret Aléatoire) and a multi-purpose & cultural center (La Friche La Belle de Mai) - all connected to the restaurant.

The cuisine highlights seasonal ingredients in simple meals such as salads, soups, simmering casseroles and homemade desserts. Délicieux! Les Grandes Tables de la Friche is more than a restaurant or a bar. It’s a place of ambience, culture and artistic creation with an urban atmosphere unlike New York or Berlin. Needless to say, this celebrity hot spot attracts a diverse clientele such as actors, artists, locals and multi-media types. Budget 15-30 €. Hours: Monday to Wednesday from 08:00 to 20:00. Thursday and Friday from 08:00 to 24:00 and Saturday from 18:00 to 24:00.  Location: 41 rue Jobin.  Phone: +33 (0) 4 95 04 95 85 

I can’t tell you the number of times I passed this place on my daily strolls without noticing what’s really going on.

Les Arcenaulx – a former seventeenth century stone galley warehouse wears many hats: bookstore (with a collection of modern and ancient literature), tea salon and exquisite restaurant. It thrives as a well-loved, local institution in the heart of Marseille. The bookshelves in the dining room reach from floor to high vaulted ceiling, accenting ancient beams, a warm and comfortable atmosphere and a superb southern cuisine: Artichokes barigoule (slow roasted and topped with vegetables and bacon) € 13.50, Provencal stuffed vegetables, € 13.90, Tapenade and Tomato Basil Coulis € 11.90, Foie gras and toast with a glass of Muscat, Sauternes or Port "Lagrima" € 19.00.

Need I say more? 

You’ll find the restaurant via their gourmet boutique (Salle Stendhal), which sells all sorts of delicacies from olive oil, to tapanade and soap. The entrance to the restaurant is at the end of the shop on your right. Budget 30-60 €. Location: 25 Cours d’Estiennne d’Orves. Phone: +33 (0) 4 91 59 80 30 www.arcenaulx.oxatis.com

Don’t you think it’s the little moments that make a place memorable? The food. The atmosphere. The smile of a stranger. The way that someone made you feel. I don’t know about you, but for me, traveling’s never been about the monuments. Always the moments. Small moments in time that we get to keep. The best kind of souvenir. I wish you well in your worldly explorations. Especially those of the heart and the soul. -- Love and Light Refreshments.

See you in Marseille! -- Tanja Bulatovic