I used to think the perfect island paradise was just an ideal - like a phony postcard or mental mirage. I was wrong. The Philippines, otherwise known as ‘The Pearl of the Orient Seas’, delivers the real thing, outweighing anything you could ever imagine. 

With more than 7100 spectacular islands to choose from, the hardest part is deciding where to go, which is why I was surprised that the country has very little international tourism to speak of.

People tend to back away from the Philippines in favor of places like Thailand for example. This is due to the fear factor in relation to certain dangers like armed robbery, terrorism, kidnappings and worse.

And yes, with a population of over 80 million, the Philippines are not free of crime (show me a place that is), but you can avoid any dangers by using a little common sense.

What’s more, considering the amount of islands available, the overall areas to steer clear from are miniscule. However, due to historical reasons of violence and resistance, it’s probably best to keep away from the following regions:

1. The islands in the Sulu archipelago south of Zamboanga City, being Basilan, Tawi Tawi, Sulu and other small islands, because they are the main center and habitat for Muslim separatists.
2. North Catobato province, south central Mindanao.
3. The Lake Lanao area in north central Mindanao.
4. Maguindanao (now considered the most dangerous place due to political dispute between opposing parties).

There you have it. Now that we’ve dealt with the pink elephant in the room, I can get on with introducing the star of the show…

Siargao Island (pronounced, shar-gow) rests 800km south east of Manila. With a landmass of approximately 437 kilometers, the island is one of many that make up the Province of Surigao del Norte. To clarify, the island sits on the Pacific Ocean side of Mindanao - at the northeastern tip of the Caraga Region. 

In comparison to Boracay, Siargao is almost savage, with an abundance of shallow warm waters protected by reefs and beaches that are untouched and unspoiled by development. Home to the largest mangrove forest in the Philippines, environmentally speaking, the place is a miracle in itself. On the east coast of the island, you’ll find hectares of fish-nursery mangroves where you won’t see another human being for hours, maybe even days.

What’s more, the island is a surfers’ paradise.  The most famous surf break being Cloud 9, hosts an international surfing competition each September. There are other breaks still, some perhaps more suitable to all levels of expertise and personal preference. Sexy waves abound at Rock Island and Stimpy’s, Cementiri’s, Jacking Horse and another, more relaxed break in front of Daku Island. For a small fee, a local will take you out by boat for the whole day.

The surfing season is generally between August to March, but these things can be unpredictable. We happened to be there in the off-season but Fabrice (see parts 1, 2, 3 if you’re new in town) still managed to draw some waves while yours truly was busy perfecting the art of doing nothing.

Want more? Sure you do! Ok, so if the surf’s not in the mood to play, go to the jungle and check out the wildlife on the island – you can still find tarsiers (bush-babies), flying lemurs and lizards (including 6 feet long monitor lizards), parrots, kingfishers and many more. Explore caves, kayak in lagoons, dive, snorkel, fish and island-hop. Get to know the locals. Buy shampoo. Floss your teeth, go to the market or check out Dapa, the port town 13 km from General Luna. 

In case you’re looking for a different type of escapism, there are a couple of bars scattered around the island.  When I say bars, they’re more like open-air bamboo cabins with beach sand on the floor.  I forget the name, but there’s a tiny place near Patrick’s On The Beach. Big vodkas, massive ice cubes, intriguing locals and expats (to say the least), live music and a DJ after dark. 

Public transport works best via motorcycles and private motorbike taxis. In regards to the latter only the truly adventurous need apply. Who knew you could fit 4 people on a motorbike? What all this means is that yes, being a scaredy cat, at first I did freak out about the bike-taxis in the middle of the night - but there’s really not much choice, and in the end it all worked out fine.

In the pitch-black of night, (no streetlights), the local dudes navigate each and every dirt-road pothole by heart. Trust! Besides, isn’t it true that doing something scary and extraordinary stretches you in a way you would never otherwise know? Or so they say.

Accommodation

There’s plenty of choice and something to fit every budget. We stayed at Patrick’s On The Beach.  Location wise it was perfect. Andreas the owner, is a funny old German fellow who’s always happy to chat and tell you about the virtues of Paradise living.

He’s got a bunch of huts right on the beach, which seemed to me a lot more user friendly and comfortable than some other places.  Prices are reasonable.  The rooms are great and the menu at the restaurant is vast, serving generous portions of international dishes and vegetarian food. The breakfasts are divine…(don’t forget to try the homemade yoghurt, dark German multigrain bread and mango infused local rum…yum, yum!)

And guess what? There’s Internet!  For me, that was the deal clincher right there and though there are no banks on the island (the only downside) they let you run a tab, change currency and/or pay with your credit card at the end. Otherwise it’s a 3-hour boat ride to the city of Surigao where you’ll find ATM machines that accept Visa and Cirrus cards. In a way that’s a major pain, but in another it’s kind of refreshing.  www.patrickonthebeach.com/

The beaches on Siargao can be a little temperamental (blame it on the tide) but perfect for swimming in the mornings and evenings.  The in-between times don’t account for much anyway because you’ll be busy swimming, surfing and sun worshipping elsewhere. Where?

A couple of teasers…

Guyam

One of the smallest islands around Siargao is the idyllic Guyam Island. Only 10 minutes by boat from General Luna, you can kayak, swim or even walk there during low tide. Just remember to come back in time otherwise you’ll be doing it Robinson Crusoe style until the next day.
You may not be alone, there’s a caretaker who looks after the place. Pretty cushy job if you ask me… Exactly what he does is anyone’s guess.  Surely there can’t be that many coconuts tumbling from trees? Sometimes people rent the place for special occasions (perfect for a wedding or birthday bash). It’s not, however, the place to go if you’re looking to stretch your legs. It takes 3 minutes to walk around the whole island. 

Daku Island

If Siargao itself isn’t Paradise, you sure as hell can see it from there. The tiny Daku - a jewel amidst the Pacific, hosts the best beach I have ever seen. Prepare to be mesmerized by shades of blue and green, wrapped around vibrant island blossoms - where the locals will cook your fish in banana leaves, (Dorado $2 per kilo from the local market) and fetch coconuts straight from the tree. For a small donation we got to spend the whole day under a shady cabana, with the entire beach to ourselves.

Best of all, my gorgeous friend Shaunagh had just flown in from Australia. Soaking in shallow lagoons of emerald green, we giggled like two little girls in a blow-up swimming pool. Our hair and skin kissed by the sun, we felt exquisite, weightless, without a care in the world.

Every once in a while a funny thing happened. There where moments interspersed with long periods of calm transmuting into meditation, when we’d simply rest. Side-by-side in silence and at one with the Sea. Several times, we would plunge our hands into the warm water and come up with treasure. One time, she found a fat ladyfinger seashell, another time a handsome beau with dreadlocked hair.

Recently I asked her what she remembered about the place. Here’s what she came up with:

Shaunagh Remembers Flying over tear drop islands (weekly flights from Manila and Cebu) Air Cebu in-flight competitions and cute airhostesses that disco dance during the safety demonstration. (I guess if you crash the dancing will distract you) The airport - a shed surrounded by palm trees Popsicles of fish skewers cooked on BBQ’s stoked with dry coconut shells Coconut oil to rub into skin Fire flies at night Bats Yummy pizza at the French restaurant/hotel Seafood picnics on the beach Tiny black piglets everywhere (most of which end up roasted over the fire). Sorry Beautiful children playing on the beach ‘Surprise’ pots of food at private food stalls (people’s homes) Untouched beauty

Pretty good, right?  Her list was actually longer, but I secretly stole some parts for the article (thanks Shaunagh:)

Real Estate Opportunities

Prices vary; you really have to shop around. If you start by asking one person, all sorts of vendors will come out of the woodworks wanting to show you their aunties or uncles property. That may be good and well, as long as their aunties and uncles know the property is being sold. 
There’s land from $11 per square meter. We found some on Daku at $5 a meter - a secluded, elevated, rocky jungle (needing major clearing) but it was right next to surf break.

In addition we were offered a village house for $15 000 by an ex-pat from Australia.  Other properties for around $60K.  It all depends what you’re after.  Off course, foreigners can’t straight-out buy (unless it’s a condominium in a city), but there’s always a way. You can start a company and appoint a couple of Filippino Directors you can trust.

Another option is to rent for 100 years.  Personally, I’d go for the latter.  Who’s gonna live that long? Whatever you decide, make sure you get a good lawyer.  There’s a handful of expats living on the island who’ve done just that.  All you need to do is ask around and someone will recommend a good person (someone they’ve already used). 

But if you’re seriously thinking of buying, take my advice and rent a place for a few months before you decide. 

Rent

I’ve seen places for $690 per month. Beachfront Houses for $34 per night. Surfing cottages for $11.50 per night.

I know of one place near Patrick’s. A small house with beach access that rents at 100,000P per year (that’s $2300).  I haven’t actually seen the house but I’m told it’s a bargain and if you’d like some more details or photos, here’s a contact: davedarby@yahoo.com 

The Average Cost of Living in the Philippines is considerably cheaper than most western parts of the world. Off course, just how cheap you want to go is totally up to you. If you live a simple life in the province and stay away from tourist traps you can easily get by on $600 per month. For $1200 per month, you’ll live like royalty (whatever that means).

Philippines Cost Of Living Estimated Budget for 2 people (per month) Rent - 2500-6000 Peso / $57-138  Food - (eating fresh food) – 5000-7500 Peso / $114-172 Water (tap water) – 300 Peso / $7 Mineral Water (delivered to our door) – 100-450 Peso / $2-10 Bottled Water 1000 Peso / $23 Electricity (depending on aircon or non aircon) – 1000 – 3000 Peso /$23-69 Fuel (gasoline) – 800 Peso / $18 Clothes washing bill -1000 Peso / $23 Gas (for cooking) – 200-350 Peso / $4-8 Visa waiver (2 month visa extension) – 1600 / $36 Telephone & Internet -1000 Peso / $23 Cable - 600 Peso / $13 Maid – 2000 Peso / $45 Transport (jeepney and motorbike taxi) – 700 -1500 Peso / $16-34 Dining out – 1500 Peso / $34

Visas You can apply for a Resident Retiree Visa at the ripe old age of 35, as long as you’re able to deposit $50 000 in a Filipino bank. If you’re 50+ it gets a little better at $10 000 a pop. Also you’ll need to prove that you have some sort of regular income or pension. Not rocket science.