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Real Estate in Florianópolis, Brazil - On The Island of Santa Catarina
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Real Estate in Florianópolis, Brazil
On The Island of Santa Catarina
The real estate is a bargain, the beaches uncrowded, and the small towns that dot the island are colonial and picturesque. It's Ilha Santa Catarina, otherwise known as Santa Catarina Island and simply called Floripa by the locals; a 200 square mile island located just off the coast of southern Brazil and it's as good a spot as one could ask for. Imagine a very large and very lovely Brazilian island with numerous perfect beaches, (there are 49 major beaches, countless small ones) dozens of lovely towns, and then throw in the city of Florianópolis, which is a city large enough (pop 260,000) to provide all of the modern necessities of life without it being an oppressive metropolis.

Located at latitude 27 degrees south - 48 degrees east, Santa Catarina Island is deep in the southern hemisphere, just north of Brazil's border with Uruguay.

Because of its extreme southern location this area has much cooler temperatures than northern Brazil. Agreeable temperatures, pristine beaches, colonial towns, a city of acceptable size, and bargain real estate prices; so why isn't everyone talking about it?  That is precisely what I asked myself and that is the reason I found myself standing high on the heights above Lagoa da Conceicao looking at the lakes, towns, sea and sky of Ilha Santa Catarina along with my youngest daughter Chloé. On the event of her seventeenth birthday Chloé joined me on an exploratory trip to Santa Catarina Island, Buenos Aries in Argentina, and Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.
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Our purpose was to explore the livability of these three locations and to report the findings to Escape From America readers.  Ilha Santa Catarina, our first stop was a pleasant surprise and more than lived up to our expectations of what the island would be.

This being our first trip we decided to make the city of Florianópolis our base for simplicity's sake.  Arriving in the evening we noted that the city seemed slightly abandoned, with very little foot traffic.

We were to learn that the island while being the year 'round permanent residence to many people is also considered a resort and hence swells in population in the Brazilian summer and sort of empties out in the cooler months.

Many Brazilians keep summer homes here where they spend three or four months a year.

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The next morning beneath cobalt blue skies, crisp air and a warming sun, we found Florianópolis to be a pleasant city with a nice mix of both modern and colonial architecture, populated with extremely friendly people.

The city of Florianópolis is also the capital of the State of Santa Catarina, and it is dually located with part of the city on the mainland and the other half on the island; both parts linked by the longest suspension bridge in Brazil.  The city of Florianópolis is a busy commercial center, with most of the industry on the mainland side of the city and most of the living, or bedroom section being on the island side of the city.  The city's industries produce metallurgical and electrical communications equipment, pharmaceuticals, plastics, and perfume.  The island section of the city is the more pleasant half of the city with tree lined streets, interesting architecture and a colonial section of note.

I did price some of the colonial buildings on the island side of the city and found the prices to be 30% lower than the prices in Rio de Janeiro. Despite the low prices, it is doubtful that many expatriates would want to live in the city after they've seen the rest of the island, but I did find bargain prices in the city.

The colonial section of the city is rather sleepy but there are modern sections of the city along the beach that may be of interest to readers.  Keep in mind that the city faces east towards the mainland.  This section of Florianópolis has some high-rise apartments in the $100,000 to $250,000 price range.  These apartments look out over the inland side of the island where the surf is calmer and the night time view includes the mainland section of the city with its sparkling lights.  It wouldn't be my choice, but I won't deny that it would be an excellent place to live for those who prefer the simplicity of high rise living.

Despite the fact that it is a fairly large city it has a small city feel and it is a pleasant place for walking with its tree lined streets and its unpretentious and unadulterated colonial  architecture.  The section in the photo at left is the more modern section and is the area where the best international restaurants exist.

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The island and the city are well known for having excellent sea food which is considered by Brazilians to be the best sea food in all of Brazil.  The sea food which we sampled was well prepared and the portions were plentiful - the restaurants themselves, especially on the eastern side of the island had an interesting ambiance and the service was great.  The Brazilian habit of having a good time prevailed wherever we went. One doesn't simply go to a restaurant and eat, one is made part of a family. (For seafood, try Arante Bar on the beach at Praia do Pântano do Sul - Tel. 237-7022).

I had anticipated that I would learn a lot from Chloé as relates to an American teenagers view of living in a foreign nation.  If teenagers don't like a spot it will of course cause family discord when parents relocate abroad with teenage children.  Younger children readily adapt, but teenagers are a difficult and troublesome species of bird.  Surprisingly she immediately liked both Florianópolis and the island itself. She talked about moving there with her boyfriend some day. This assessment was to change when she saw and was overwhelmingly enthralled by the city of Buenos Aires, but that is another story and the subject of another article. (...and of course she has since changed boyfriends along with her hair color. Nothing it seems, is cast in stone).

We visited several beach towns on Santa Catarina's east coast. One that stood out was Barra da Lagoa.  Half the town is accessible only by boat, or by a foot bridge that spans the canal. In the photo at right you are seeing houses built on the side of the canal that is not connected to a road. Foot trails lead to houses and bungalows that are strung out along a flower covered hillside. Houses can be purchased in this area for under US$70,000. There is full and modern infrastructure, including phone and internet connections. It should be stressed that despite the colonial cottage appearance of the architecture this a very modern place.  I have not seen anything this lovely in many a year.  It is a truly idyllic place with excellent social conditions.  Children hitchhike on this island, some with their surf boards.  The reason they hitchhike is because it is safe to do so. Almost zero crime, much cooler temperatures than Rio de Janeiro yet the Brazilian ambiance that make living in Brazil such a distinct pleasure is readily apparent in every aspect of social interchange.  Put this island on your list.

Barra da Lagoa has white sand beaches, some nice restaurants and is a mere 20 minutes from Florianópolis. Barra da Lagoa would be a lovely place to live. The temperature when we were there, (July 2003) was cool enough to require a sweater. July is winter in the southern hemisphere, and in January, (which is the summer of the southern hemisphere,) Santa Catarina Island is a resort destination for Argentines, Uruguayans and other Brazilians.

There is a road that circumnavigates almost the entire island, passing vistas that are spell binding, small colonial towns, resorts, surfing beaches, small ranches, lakes, blue seas, blue skies and sand dunes. It would require two, perhaps three days to do justice to the island and even then it wouldn't be much more than a kiss and a promise. The island has much to offer and as a place to live I have not found a more tranquil and inviting spot. Santa Catarina is as isolated from the worlds problems as one can ever get.  Yet it is fully connected to the modern world, and its people are well educated and intelligent.

On the western side of the island we visited the town of Ribeirão da Ilha which is considered the islands most 'typical' place.  What is meant by the term typical is vintage colonial.  Indeed Ribeirão da Ilha is vintage colonial and its Azorian architecture is often used as the backdrop to films and 'novellas' (Brazilian soap operas.) They were shooting a film in Ribeirão da Ilha the day we were there.

Prices for houses in Ribeirão da Ilha are slightly higher than Barra da Lagoa, and while Ribeirão is a lovely place I'd put my money into Barra da Lagoa before I'd choose Ribeirão. Be prepared to pay around $80,000+ for houses in Ribeirão; although a fixer could be purchased for less. See photo of a fixer upper that Chloé and I found and fell in love with in Ribeirão. This house fronts on the beach and I could figure ten ways to turn it into a show piece.

What we are talking about when we talk about Floripa is real estate that is very affordable.  Yes, you can spend a million dollars in Floripa, you can do that anywhere in the world.  But good solid real estate can be purchased in Floripa for less than $100,000 - and I am talking about a decent house that you can be proud of.  In the local newspapers I did see properties for US$500,000 and I did see the usual hype and glitter that appeals to those with deep pockets.  On Floripa it isn't necessary to have a gated community, because there is no abundance of thieves to lock out.  Floripa is a reminder of a finer world when people could live side by side without locked doors.

It is clear to me that Floripa is an excellent relocation destination.  If you want to return to a world where people live side by side in harmony Floripa might be the best spot to look at. It is also worth noting that Brazil doesn't declare war on other nations, and Brazil has no enemies despite the fact that it is the only Portuguese speaking nation amidst a large number of Spanish speaking nations.  Brazil is the only nation in the world that developed a nuclear bomb and then dismantled it along with their entire nuclear weapons program. They decided that a nuclear bomb was of no use to Brazil as it was not something that they would consider using under any circumstance. Brazilians are known worldwide for their dynamic outgoing personalities. What makes Brazil so special is not merely its extraordinary natural environment, but the extraordinary makeup of its people. Everyone likes Brazil and the Brazilian people; they have no enemies because their foreign policy doesn't create enemies.

Marshall Eakin in his book 'Brazil: The Once and Future Country,' states that, "Brazilians have created a rich and complex nation that could become a major player on the world stage in the twenty-first century.  With enormous natural and human resources, a strong industrial base, and a dynamic culture, Brazil could play a prominent role in international politics, economic relations and cultural affairs. It could become the first developing nation to enter into the ranks of the great powers.  Brazil could leave the Third World."

Whether or not Eakin is correct about Brazil leaving the Third World, (others have made this same statement,) there is no questioning the dynamic quality of Brazil and of the Brazilian people. It is true that Floripa doesn't have the intense dynamic hustle of Rio de Janeiro, which may or may not be missed by the potential expatriate to Floripa.  What Floripa does have is a very pristine environment, great beaches, reasonable real estate prices and friendly people.  Put it on your list.

Newspapers Are Valuable Indicators

I find newspapers to be an extremely important source of gaining preliminary real estate information.  Too many expats immediately go to an English speaking real estate agent in order to find out about local real estate prices.  In the classified sections of a newspaper we get the for sale by owner properties without the mark-up required by an agent.  A classified section gives us a clearer sense of actual prices because the prices are aimed at locals who will know if a price is ridiculously high. It doesn't take much to learn to read the real estate classifieds even when they are in Portuguese. There are only a dozen or so words that are required to be learned. Once we have a firm understanding of what the actual prices are we can certainly seek out a real estate agent if we feel the need, but by then we'll have a better understanding of local real estate reality and we won't be subject to being given the 'stupid gringo' price.

Some newspapers that I found of value were:

Diário Catarinense - http://www.diario.com.br  - This newspaper, totally in Portuguese, has a large classified section with a wide listing of real estate.  I see downtown apartments in their classified for as low as $30,000 -  It isn't impossible to figure out what is what in a Brazilian newspaper.  Real estate is called imobiliária, downtown is called 'centro' and most other listings are listed by the name of the town. When you see the price, if the price is 150.000,00 - that means 150,000 Real. (The Real is the Brazilian currency which is currently trading at almost three Real to the Dollar.)  To find out what the price is you simply divide by three and you have the approximate price of the property.  (US$50,000)  Of course this is not precisely accurate, and the currency prices are subject to change, but this is an rough method of determining approximate prices until you can sit down with a calculator and do precise calculations.

Another paper, found in restaurants and hotels is the Jornal de Negócios, however I cannot find an online source for this paper.  Evidently each city, or region has its own version of the Jornal de Negócios. Another very good newspaper is the Jornal de Santa Catarina - http://www.santa.com.br - It sports a very comprehensive real estate section.

Again, these publications are in Portuguese, but with a little bit of work and a Portuguese/English dictionary it is quite easy to decipher what you are reading. If you intend to move to Brazil learning to read a Brazilian newspaper is a good place to start learning the culture and the language.

Map - GeoGuia Florianópolis - A resizable map of Floripa is available at: GeoGuia Florianópolis http://floripa.geoguia.com.br - The map has a series of icons on the left hand side of the page. With some experimentation it is possible to find any town on the island and expand a map of the area.

Matrix - A Floripa Web Portal with culture, entertainment, weather and a wide range of resources Matrix - http://www.matrix.com.br

Search imobiliária Florianópolis - Which means; 'real estate Florianópolis.'

As a place to live Floripa would be idyllic.  Starting a business in Floripa is another matter.  It is a resort area and those businesses related to the resort industry should do well, but Santa Catarina Island is an place where one should do their homework and spend sufficient time analyzing the situation prior to making any sort of business investment.  As a place to live, Floripa is an excellent destination. If one makes their living via the internet, or from international sources, than living in Santa Catarina would be an excellent decision.

Floripa, the state of Santa Catarina, and much of southern Brazil was settled by immigrants from Germany, Italy, and Poland.  Its ethnic make up and its southern location create a unique place with unique people.  There is only one way to understand if Santa Catarina and Florianópolis are for you and that is to go there and spend a some time getting the feel of the place. Both Chloé and I were very much impressed with Ilha Santa Catarina.  Our three day schedule didn't allow us enough time to do justice to the island.  I myself am firmly committed to return and spend a few weeks exploring the backwaters of this amazing island.  Among the many places I have seen it stands very tall.

Real Estate In Brazil - Real Estate In Florianópolis - Real Estate In Brazil - Real Estate In Florianópolis - Current real estate listings for Brazil & Florianópolis with color photos.

Vacation Rentals - Vacation Rentals Including Florianópolis - Vacation Rentals worldwide including Vacation Rentals in Florianópolis.

iFloripa.com, Your Source of Information about Florianopolis, BrazilFlorianópolis - Florianópolis Brazil - iFloripa.com, Your Source of Information about Florianopolis, Brazil - Has Sports, Ecology, History, Business, great photographs and cultural information. (In English).

Taxi - Tour Service -  The father and son team of Neri and Jocelito are an excellent choice for those seeking extended taxi service, or a trip around the island. Telephone Celular 9971 7103 in Florianópolis -  Note that neither Neal or Jocelito speak English, but you will need to know a few words of Portuguese to get along on the island in any regard. Bring a Portuguese-English Dictionary or translation calculator.

Internet access is said to be good throughout the island.  I did not access the internet in Florianópolis but there are two service providers listed:Floripa Internet - Also try - UNETSUL -

Brazil: The Once and Future Country - Brazil: The Once and Future Country - a book that will introduce the reader to Brazil written by Marshall Eakin.

The current value of the Brazilian currency, the  Real as of this writing is approximately U.S.34¢ - See my article Exciting Real Estate Opportunities In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil for an explanation of how the fluctuation in currency prices effects real estate acquisition.

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