Real Estate In Buenos Aires - Looking For Bargains In Buenos Aires
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 Real Estate In Buenos Aires - Looking For Bargains In Buenos Aires
EscapeArtist.com Staff Article
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Note: This article only evaluates the real estate in Buenos Aires.  Argentina is a big country and there is plenty of land in Argentina that is not Buenos Aires.  The citizens of Buenos Aries tend to be secular and to ignore the land outside of Buenos Aries as being in the 'sticks'  - The expatriate investor is not handicapped with such stigma.  There is plenty of great real estate outside of Buenos Aires and much of it is available at bargain prices.  Read this article and thereby learn to understand the real estate market of Buenos Aries, but also look closely at other areas of Argentina for the excellent bargains that abound.  View the Argentina Real Estate Marketplace for a full view of real estate in Argentina. 
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Buenos Aries July 2003

We arrived at night.
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After the wide open spaces and the endless golden beaches of Brazil; Buenos Aires on first impression seemed an endless city of medium size high-rises without a horizon. Another Los Angeles, I thought to myself. The fifty-five minute ride from the airport passed through district after district, made discernible as separate districts by their slight alteration in architectural style.  The ninth largest city in the world, covering 75 square miles of the earth’s surface, (stretching from the Rio del Plata to the famous fertile lands called the pampas,) Buenos Aires is the political, economic, and cultural capital of Argentina. This city called Buenos Aires, as we were soon to discover is a city of style, both genuine and affected; but real or artificially enacted, the style of the Porteños doesn’t have any counterpart in the outer world and its uniqueness in itself is probably worth the price of admission.

A friend recommended the Trianon Residence as being a good place to stay. It was a good recommendation and as it turned out for us, it was wise choice. The Trianon is very centrally located in downtown Buenos Aires and the suites lacked for nothing.  Close to shopping, dining, and all the major sights, we found the Trianon to be a great place to stay and a perfect base from which to explore Buenos Aires.  Located in the heart of the Recoleta on Callao Avenue between Alvear and Quintana Avenues, the Trianon features large fully furnished two and three bedroom apartments, (vintage, old money, stylish apartments,) complete with kitchen, living room and a wide verandah that overlooks a tranquil patio. [see resources for details]

Over the next few days we discovered that Buenos Aires is a city of style not just in architecture, but in all manner of things. The style of dress of the Argentine runs from the precise perfectionistic overdone Italian style of dress to the slightly raunchy but hip style of the Californian. It's a cafe culture, and a  culture of cafe talkers; where making the right appearance holds sway. Not being interested in social appearances, some of the cock of the walk posturing left me wishing I was back in Brazil. But we weren't here to evaluate appearances, we were here to look at the real estate market.  Word was out that the recent Argentine Monetary Crisis had reduced real estate prices in Buenos Aires, and if this rumor was true I knew it was something that my readers would want to know about. 

One of the world's greatest and most exciting cities; Buenos Aires seems to have it all; great architecture, great food, a complex and interesting culture, tango, excellent artists, good theater, the world's best opera, an opera house second only to La Scala in Milan. Buenos Aries is city in which it is impossible to be bored. Considered the Paris of the Americas, Buenos Aires has excellent real estate, but there are few bargains. Real estate in Buenos Aries is very expensive. Is it worth the price?  Read this article and decide for yourself.
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Buenos Aires is broken up into a number of distinct neighborhoods, each neighborhood having its own ambiance and lifestyle, I was told that the city has 47 such barrios or discernible neighborhoods  Our base in the Trianon placed us in the Recoleta, one of the wealthiest and most expensive neighborhoods in Buenos Aires.  The Recoleta has fine restaurants, stylish galleries, high class antique stores, a large park, and is a very happening place every hour of the day and night. There are no real estate bargains in the Recoleta.  While I had heard rumors that prices were down in the Recoleta due to the monetary crisis, these rumors were not borne out in fact.  Prices were not even slightly off, and this is a fact corroborated by others I knew who were also visiting Buenos Aires looking at real estate. 

Despite the drop in prices in Argentina created by the recent financial mess, most Argentines were not anxious to sell their real estate, as real estate in Buenos Aires tends to hold its value in all situations.  Buenos Aires is a city of tradition with traditional neighborhoods with traditional and unwavering lifestyle. Many residents have lived in the same apartment their entire life and they are not going to sell their apartment simply because there is yet another political or financial crisis.  Another tradition in Argentina is having one crises after the other.  The value of real estate doesn't overreact to political and financial disasters, they happen much too often to have them cause much of a ripple in the real estate market. It seems that the bargains that I had come to find were not going to be found in Buenos Aires. 

"Our image of the city is always slightly out of date." said the Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges referring to Buenos Aires. 
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I could live here!
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While we didn't find any steals we did find very reasonable real estate prices in the San Telmo neighborhood. San Telmo is sort of the Greenwich Village of Buenos Aires, filled with cafes, antique shops, jazz clubs, tango clubs, art galleries and an ongoing street fair that gets jammed on weekends. The hodgepodge of European architecture in San Telmo, much of it covered with graffiti, does have a certain scruffy appeal. There is a ruinous quality to the neighborhood that gives the impression of once rich royalty down on its luck. For a certain kind of person it'd be a really great place to live, perhaps the greatest place of all.

My daughter fell in love with San Telmo.  I suspect she envisioned herself living a Greenwich Village Bohemian lifestyle without the Greenwich Village prices.  Her romantic sensibilities aside, I also felt a scruffy fondness for San Telmo.

In San Telmo I saw a 1,000 square foot two bedroom apartment for US$70,000.  It had a very large sunny terrace, with a decent view.  Compare that with a 870 square foot two bedroom apartment in the Recoleta for US$90,000. In fact those prices; $70 a square foot versus $103 a square foot are a good yardstick to use for the entire city.  In the better neighborhoods the prices are $100 a square foot and up and in the more bohemian neighborhoods $70 a square foot would be the norm. 

I did see some neighborhoods in the outlying area towards the airport where apartments could be had for around $40 a square foot.  How exciting it would be to live in these outlying neighborhoods is another question. 

The higher prices in the Recoleta and Barrio Norte area are justified by those areas being the best areas in which to live, and despite the fact that there are no steals, the values of these properties have demonstrated their staying power through the worst of times, which would certainly seem to indicate they will continue to do so far into the future. 
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Like Paris - Like Rome - Like nowhere else - Buenos Aries is unique
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Wine, Dining & Entertainment

In Argentina you'll drink some of the worlds best wines, all of them from Argentina. Very few of Argentina's superb wines are exported, so you'll have to go to Argentina to drink them.  Even though Argentina is a major wine producer, there is such a high level of local demand that it isn't necessary to export the wine; it's all consumed locally.

I tried several different wines.  When I found one I liked I returned to the store to buy three bottles of it.  I asked the sales clerk if they had anything else as good as the bottle I had picked.  "There is the next category up," she replied. 
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I tried the 'next category up.'  Being a rank amateur that merely drinks and enjoys good wine and doesn’t pretend to know the complicated judging system used by the wine connoisseurs, I am unwilling to describe these wines in terms of stars. I’ve found that many of those who write about wines and consider themselves authorities will award three stars or more to a wine I wouldn’t bother to drink twice, so I won’t pretend that I know something about the esthetics of wine when the so-called experts don’t seem to know much themselves. 
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With that said, I will go out on a limb and state that the 'next category up,’ to which the sales clerk referred consisted of such great wines that they exceeded almost anything I had previously consumed. 

Two of the Argentine wines that stood out were Finca La Anita’s 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Domingo Molina’s 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Finca La Anita is from the Mendoza region and the Domingo Molina is from the Salta region.  These wines were in the US$15-20 price range.  I don’t have the superlatives to describe these wines.  They were simply among the best wines I have every consumed. If you get to Argentina look them up and say hello for me. It would be worth having an apartment in Buenos Aires just to drink these fine wines.  …and of course I didn’t drink every wine in Argentina, so there are many more waiting to be discovered.
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Buenos Aires is famous for its dining. Meats dominate the menu, and the meats are superb.  Raised on the Pampas without the use of injected hormones, the beef of Argentina is among the richest and purest in the world. Before going to Buenos Aires I purchased an excellent book of Argentine recipes - La Cocina Argentina, The Argentine Kitchen.  The book is only available in Español, but I will provide a link to it in the resources as reading a recipe doesn’t require a profound understanding of Español. A Spanish/English dictionary should allow anyone with a rudimentary intelligence to follow the recipes. 

I did not see many of the recipes listed in La Cocina Argentina in the restaurants that we went to.  Of course we were only in Buenos Aires one week, and one week doesn’t give you an insider’s knowledge of a place, especially a complex city the size of Buenos Aires. 

My daughter is a vegetarian, and she made a point of telling me that she didn’t find a great deal of variety in the restaurant offerings.  Another problem I had was the strangeness of the names of the dishes.  I did not bring the above mentioned cookbook with me, so I didn’t know the names of three quarters of the dishes on most menus.  The Español of Buenos Aires does not resemble the Español of Panama except on the most rudimentary level. 

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My daughter is a vegetarian, and she made a point of telling me that she didn’t find a great deal of variety in the restaurant offerings
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Entertainment in Buenos Aires is a serious affair, as the Porteños tend to take themselves seriously.   Tangistas, (Tango musicians) dress completely in black, and there is a certain tragic quality to the Tango, both in music and dance.  Jazz is available in Buenos Aires, and the city sports one of the best Opera houses in the world. Buenos Aires is also known for having some of the best Spanish language writers in the world.  Among the souvenirs that I returned with 90% of them were paintings which I purchased on the street from the artists themselves.  Buenos Aires is clearly a highly cultured city with much about it that is agreeable.  Its serious and sometimes humorless nature requires a bit of an adjustment especially when coming from a very happy place like Brazil. But Buenos Aires is unquestionably one of the greatest cities in the world, and while real estate is not a steal it is probably a bargain, as the real estate has great value based on where you get for what you pay.
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Resources

Trianon Residence - Avda. Callao 1869 (1024) Buenos Aires - República Argentina - Trianon Residence - Staying at the Trianon Residence greatly enhanced the enjoyment of our trip. Excellent accommodations in an excellent location. 
Real Estate In Argentina - Real Estate In Buenos Aires - Real Estate In Argentina - Real Estate In Buenos Aires - Current real estate listings for Argentina & Buenos Aires with color photos - 
Vacation Rentals - Vacation Rentals Including Buenos Aires - Vacation Rentals worldwide including Vacation Rentals in Buenos Aires - 
JR Reynolds Argentina Real Estate & Relocation homes - JR Reynolds Argentina Real Estate - A reputable company that has a wide selection of real estate in Buenos Aries. 
La Cocina Argentina -  The Argentine Kitchen Cookbook - An excellent and expensive Argentine cookbook, available only in Español.
Internet access is excellent, at least in Buenos Aires.  I noted that there is no end of Internet Cafes in the city; sometimes one on every block - One should have no problem getting warp speeds in Buenos Aires if one lived there; and no problem finding an internet cafe in city center.  I have heard reports from other parts of Argentina that imply that warp speeds are available as far south as Bariloche.  Argentina is connected. 
The best book I've found on Buenos Aires, is 'At Home in Buenos Aires' - At Home in Buenos AiresExcellent color photographs of the architecture and lifestyle of the Porteño.  Artists, expatriates, and a cast of interesting people and their houses in Buenos Aires.  Highly recommended.
Finca La Anita Vineyard - Finca La Anita Vineyard - The Finca La Anita Vineyard is one of the two vineyards mentioned in this article, the other, the Domingo Molina Vineyard doesn't seem to have a website.  I did note from searching on the internet that some Domingo Molina wines are being sold in the USA, but apparently not the Cabernet.

Currency Exchange Rates:
Friday, February 20, 2004
1 US Dollar = 2.93600 Argentine Peso
1 Argentine Peso = 0.34060 US Dollar 
This makes that the current value of the Argentine Pesol is approximately U.S..34¢ - See my article Exciting Real Estate Opportunities In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil for an explanation of how the fluctuation in currency prices effects real estate acquisition.
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Insight Guide Buenos Aires (Insight City Guides) - Insight Guide Buenos Aires -  The Insight Guides present the best explanation of a city, nation or place.  Many hippy style readers prefer Lonely Planet, but Lonely Planet only supplies you with the bottom end; places to smoke a joint, places to stay in a hostel, how to save money on a bus trip....  to find the essence of a place from the perspective of someone who doesn't want to sleep in the mud, the Insight Guides are unsurpassed.  Great color photos, great history, with an emphasis on explaining a place, not from a tourists perspective, but from the perspective of the place as a place worth knowing. Insight Guides also has a guide on Argentina, the Insight Guide to Argentina gives you the entire nation with excellent color photos.
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History of Buenos Aires  - The city of Buenos Aires was first founded in 1536 by a Spanish gold-seeking expedition under Pedro de Mendoza. However, attacks by indigenous peoples forced the settlers in 1539 to move to Asunción (now the capital of Paraguay), and in 1541 the old site was burned. A second and permanent settlement was begun in 1580 by Juan de Garay, who set out from Asunción. Although Spain long neglected Buenos Aires in favor of the riches of Mexico and Peru, the settlement's growth was enhanced by the development of trade, much of it contraband.In 1617 the province of Buenos Aires, or Río de la Plata, was separated from the administration of Asunción and was given its own governor; a bishopric was established there in 1620. During the 17th cent. the city ceased to be endangered by indigenous peoples, but French, Portuguese, and Danish raids were frequent. Buenos Aires remained subordinate to the Spanish viceroy in Peru until 1776, when it became the capital of a newly created viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata, including much of present-day Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Bolivia. - More History of Buenos Aires -
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