Self-Contained
Living - Mi Casa Su Caja - Page Three
Global Nomadic Housing For Expatriates
- Living In A Shipping Container - Part Two
by Colin
Reedy
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Propane. Readily
available in most of the world, cheap, and relatively safe, propane offers
the container home a fuel source for cooking, refrigeration, and heating
both water and air. Good steel propane burners are widely available
in camping stores for USD$75-200 depending upon features. I¹m
interested to learn what is required to convert a standard compact gas
oven/range to use propane. My cooking skills are primarily
stove top based, but having an oven could be nice.
| Propane powered refrigerators
are less common and therefore more expensive. Figure USD$400
or more (unless you can find a used one) for a compact unit that will fit
under the kitchen counter. Many models can use both propane
and electric power which would be my choice when steady local power is
available. I found one refrigerator that runs very efficiently on
kerosene, but kerosene stinks, especially in a small space. |
Top View Of Your Nomadic House
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L I C K I M A G E T O E N L A R G E
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I'm not going to spend much
time here considering propane space heaters. After 17 years
in Chicago winters, I don't mind when temperature drop into the 50'sF (10C)
and even lower at night. That's what sweaters, warm blankets,
and girlfriends were made for. But there are numerous inexpensive
propane heater units that bolt to the wall or free stand capable of warming
a shipping container. Just be careful on placement for fire
safety. The last propane appliance would be the gas "on-demand"
water heater previously discussed. I recommend 2-3 smaller
propane tanks for easier filling and transporting instead of a single big
one. I considered a big tank secured in a steel closet located
near the door for east access and filling, but more than likely you will
need to carry a couple tanks some distance to get propane.
Multiple tanks also means you can have one tank dedicated to cooking and
another to supply a steady trickle of gas to the fridge and water heater.
Again, group the gas appliances
closely along one wall to simplify the pipes and access. Please
see the links at the end of this article for a good website offering numerous
propane products and information. Ventilation. For safe use
of propane appliances and fresh air in general, multiple vents are smart.
A hood and vent located directly over the stove will be a necessity to
take out cooking smells (after that Cajun blackened redfish dinner!).
A good one with a decent fan can also go a long way to moving air through
the whole container. A 12 volt fan won't do much, but a good
hood design and placement can do wonders for directing cooking odors.
I imagine a more powerful fan in place and used when electricity
supply permits. The toilet and gas water heater have vent pipes
included requiring 3-4 inch (8-10cm) holes to the outside.
Neither need fans but a 12volt battery fan for the toilet is an option.
I don't know about a need for venting the propane fridge yet.
For all vent openings to the outside (and drains for that matter), some
method of closing and securing will be necessary during transport of the
container home. Any roof vents also need a rain cover.
The roof of a shipping container
seems to be the only weak part of an otherwise bomb-proof structure.
I've walked on several and the sheet metal flexes and warps under foot.
Because the four sides carry all the weight on heavy steel columns, the
roof doesn't need much support. However, if the roof is to
be used as a deck area or have holes cut for light and venting, some re-enforcement
is needed. I'd simply weld square tubing on the inside like
joists (every 24 inches or 60cm) and then weld the flexible sheet metal
to these joists from inside. The same steel square tube can
make frames around larger holes cut in the roof for vents (24x24 inches)
or skylights. During transport, the holes can be covered with
sheet steel and bolted closed.
Furniture. Endless
options here depending upon personal tastes and building skills..
I recommend minimal to begin and adding as you define needs.
Considering the space as if on a sailboat is a good approach.
Transportation will cause bumping and tilting of the container, so latches
on all drawers and cabinets are necessary. Everything should
have "lockdown" capability including dishes, tools, appliances, and fixtures.
I imagine welding "L" brackets to the steel walls and attaching any wood
cabinets, counters, cupboards, or tables to these. In my sketches,
I put a table hinged off a narrow counter that flips down for more space.
I like big tables and maintaining some horizontal surfaces is good for
me I'm a pile person with magazines and files and mail and whatever else
I drag home. Long narrow counters are great. Eight
and a half to ten feet of height (2.6-3m) in a typical shipping container
offers a fair amount of storage above head level. Under the
bed is another big storage space. Beds can be folded or converted
into couches, but I chose to make the bed at seat height for use with the
table next to it. And I'd put large drawers on plastic glides
(not wheels) under the bed that can be pulled out and hold quite a bit.
I¹ve been a furniture designer for ten years so I could fill pages
with design plans, but that's the fun part of customizing this container
home.
I want to map out the necessary
utility systems, make a few furniture recommendations, but let the readers
do their own layouts. Anyone who seriously considers making
a home from a shipping container probably needs little advice about cupboards
and tables.
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