Self-Contained
Living - Mi Casa Su Caja - Page Two
Global Nomadic Housing For Expatriates
- Living In A Shipping Container - Part Two
by Colin
Reedy
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It's called an "on-demand" water
heater. I found another "on-demand" system in my Peruvian hotel
last April that used electric coils in a large shower head.
But the idea of 220 volts in my shower is a bit unsettling.
I also learned that for safety concerns, some cultures aren't yet comfortable
with gas in the house to cook or heat. They prefer electricity.
However, I think a wall mounted, propane powered, "on-demand" water heater
is the best solution for an efficient container dwelling.
I have found models available for
USD$300-700. Most have electric ignition but one uses two D
size batteries that supposedly last 2 years (Aquastar 125 = USD$600).
There are also solar versions that preheat the water. Sizes
are all similar, in the 30x18x10 inch range (75x45x25cm) and 40-60 pounds
(18-28 kg). Installation would require the propane connection
and a 4-5 inch (10-12cm) hole cut for venting to the outside.
More self - sufficient water systems would involve building pressure and
even collecting and storing some of the water needed. Small
electric pumps are readily available to bring water up from wells, river,
or lake sources. Some also pressurize it to create a shower.
Hand pumps are a simpler option. One product called the "Hot
Man Camper Shower" (from Wyoming River Raiders) is essentially a
hand pump garden sprayer made in stainless steel. It's a 2.5
gallon tank (9.5 liters) with a pump, temperature gauge, hose, shower head,
and a valve. It can be placed directly on a heat source (such
as your propane kitchen stove) and delivers five minutes of continuous
hot shower. And at $100-120 it's a lot cheaper than the gas
heater and offers pressure and plumbing.
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| Water storage then becomes
an issue. I imagine using a large plastic container with a
removable top. These are often available from farm supply stores.
I have seen many sizes in South America molded from durable polypropylene
and used for roof top water storage. How much water you need
or want to store will largely reflect the situations you intend to encounter
and how self-sufficient you want to be. If you have an "on-demand"
water heater and municipal water with pressure then you need no storage.
Add a good filter to your sink and you don't even need to store drinking
water. But I want to expect situations where water is pumped,
delivered, or collected from rain.
A good awning cover could be designed
to send rainwater to the large plastic container for pumping later into
the shower or sink. And the same container could accept water
delivery or be filled from other sources. For hand pump pressurizing,
however, a smaller container would be better. Three to five
gallons is plenty of water for washing or showering and many people can
do with half that after some practice. The idea of using the "Hot Man Camp
Shower" as a cheap source of pressurized water for doing dishes (cold water)
or heating it and taking a shower seems like a simple solution. |
Awning Cover & Green House
C
L I C K I M A G E T O E N L A R G E
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Frequent refilling of the 2.5 gallon
tank might become tedious, but the cheap cost plus flexibility could make
the choice over more expensive options that still require plumbing and
pressure. Plumbing. You have to drain out the used water from
bathing and washing. And I get tired of fussy plumbing that
won't accept a few coffee grounds or bits of vegetables once in a while.
Go big. Easier to clean and avoids clogging. Two
inch (5cm) diameter PVC plastic pipe is cheap and simple to use.
In my design, I only have two water outlets (shower + sink) and two drains
that quickly merge and exit the side of the container. Raising
the floor in the bathroom area about 10-12 inches (25-30cm) allows working
space for pipes and enough incline for water to drain out well.
A factory made fiberglass shower unit solves a lot of plumbing, draining,
and water sealing efforts.
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Dymaxion House - Buckminster
Fuller
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And I can get one for less than
$200 at the local building supply store. I¹d anchor it
to the wall and brace it with floor to ceiling steel or wood beams.
As in any efficient home, water fixtures are grouped to allow minimal running
of pipes. I'd put the shower back to back with the sink.
I recommend putting all utility access/drains/vents along the same side
of the container in case location requires blocking one or two sides.
Another thought: it may not be possible to continuously drain
out water. For situations where you need to be a bit more discreet,
a 20-30 gallon reservoir that can be emptied with a valve might be desired.
In this case, raising the floor and planning the drain flow gets more critical. |
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Toilet. This
feature still has me searching for alternatives. Great composting
toilets exist that use no electricity or a little (12volts), no plumbing,
very easy installation, claim no odor, and require minimal maintenance.
And they¹re long time proven in boats, RV's, and summer cabins.
However, they start at $900 or more (SunMar Ecolet, Biolet).
I think they are ideal, but the cost
is extreme and I haven't yet found many options. One toilet
designed for river rafting trips offers a sealed box and a normal looking
toilet seat for USD$120 (another product from Wyoming River Raiders).
It claims "50 user days" which seems like a long time between emptying
(especially in a closed container!), but the cost and simplicity are there.
The toilet choices I¹ve found so far either give you an expensive
fiberglass chambered system with a bacteria rich mixture to break down
and absorb wastes, or a glorified zip-lock baggie and bucket set-up.
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