| Cigars
and rum in the fairest land under Heaven |
| With lush,
green mountains…long beaches with turquoise waters…and lively little towns
in between, the Dominican Republic is one of our favorite Caribbean Hideaways |
| When Columbus
spotted the coral-rimmed Dominican Republic, he proclaimed, “This is the
fairest land under Heaven.” We have to agree. The Dominican Republic
is home to the highest mountain range in the entire Caribbean and offers
some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
Yet it may
be the least-expensive island in the Caribbean when it comes to real estate
and cost of living. |
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The northern
coast of the DR has long been the most popular spot on the island for
tourists, as well as for foreigners looking to buy property. Visitors to
this area usually fly into the international airport at Puerto Plata.
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The town itself,
which owes its name (“silver port” in English) to Christopher Columbus
(who discovered the island in 1492), is crowded and bustling.Motorbikes
are ubiquitous, darting in and out and around. |
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| A few miles
east of Puerto Plata is Playa Dorada, name to both a beautiful stretch
of beach and a gated complex containing (at last count) 17 resorts,
an 18-hole golf course, several dance clubs and casinos, and a sizable
shopping center with a multi-screen cinema.
Many visitors
here never leave this complex.
A bit farther
east (15 miles from Puerto Plata) is Sosúa. After Puerto
Plata, it is the commerce center of the north shore, followed by Cabarete,
further east. In Sosúa, you can still find a few of the lovely handcrafted
houses built by Jewish settlers in the 1940s. Nearby Playa Sosúa
is a gorgeous stretch of tranquil beach.
Because
the north shore of the DR is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, many of
the beaches here are a bit rough. |
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Offshore
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| But not sheltered
Playa Sosúa. Occasionally referred to as the “Acapulco of DR,” this
area is known for its nightlife, but in my opinion, seems to attract a
more sedate crowd than Cabarete, which is a popular windsurfing spot and
attracts a younger, hipper crowd.
Located on
a lovely white-sand beach along an enormous bay, the former fishing village
of Cabarete now caters to tourists. Surfers, windsurfers, divers, and
party-makers crowd the beaches by day and the bars at night. A “perfect
moment” can be had at one of the many beachside restaurants here, enjoying
a meal on a warm, tropical night. Every year, an international windsurfing
competition is held here, and there’s nothing better than to watch the
colorful sails surf the waves to shore at sunset. Good food, good wine,
twinkling lights, a cooling sea breeze rustling through the palm trees,
lapping waves, your shoes kicked off, and toes dug firmly into the sand…it
doesn’t get much better.
Between Sosúa
and Cabarete you will find many lovely expanses of beaches, including Perla
Marina, Seahorse Ranch, Encuentro, Punta Goleta, Kite Beach, Playa Laguna,
and others. This area is home to many of the area’s residential districts,
both along the beach and high in the hills with an ocean or mountain view.
Many foreigners have invested here. |
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| The Samana
Peninsula is a destination for nature lovers and adventurers. Lush,
green mountains...long beaches with turquoise waters...and lively little
towns in between. If you’re a scuba diver...or if whale-watching is high
on your agenda...this is your place.
The only problem
with Samana is how to get here. You need to first fly into Santo Domingo
or Puerto Plata, overnight there, and then take a long, arduous bus ride
or catch a commuter flight to Samana.
But that’s
exactly why Samana is, as yet, not highly ranked on the tourist trail...making
it a perfect destination for bargain hunters. (Though Brad Pitt was spotted
in Samana hunting for real estate deals...so watch out, this place may
not be a secret for long.) And that’s why you need to go to the D.R....and
Samana...now. |
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| In Las Terrenas,
the
largest town on the Samana Peninsula, you can get a new one-bedroom
condo with a terrace overlooking the beach for $80,000. A three-bedroom
Bahamas-style house near the ocean with a pool and Jacuzzi is on sale right
now for $175,000. Always dreamed of running a dive shop? We know of one
that sold here recently for $130,000—building, boats, engines, equipment,
and all.
In 1998,
a law was written allowing foreigners to buy property in the Dominican
Republic with the same rights and obligations as a Dominican citizen. The
only requirement is that the Title Registry Offices keep a record, for
statistical purposes, of all purchases made by foreigners. Acquiring property
here is straightforward, but, still, foreigners purchasing property anywhere
in the world outside their native countries need to exercise extra caution.
The realtor and the notario (real estate attorney) you work with should
be able to help you through the process. It never hurts to hire your own
attorney, but it is common for realtors to recommend attorneys they feel
comfortable with. The attorneys, in turn, recommended who they believe
are the island’s best real estate brokers. I trust the judgment of those
I met with, but it never hurts to seek your own resources and advice.
Real estate
purchases in the DR work a little differently than in the U.S. Instead
of tendering a written offer, you first negotiate and reach a verbal agreement
on the price with the seller. Then, a binding “Promise of Sale” or “Option
to Purchase” is prepared by an attorney and signed by both parties. At
this time, the deposit or advance payment is normally made.
I’m told that
many attorneys and notarios in the DR do not protect the buyer adequately
in the “Promise of Sale.” For instance, sometimes buyers are asked to pay
a large percentage of the sale price without any security or direct interest
over the property. (Escrow agents are rarely used.) If these funds
are misused, the buyer’s only recourse is to sue the seller personally—and
he may have become insolvent by then. This can be particularly disconcerting
if a bank forecloses on a development property. Even if the developer has
not performed his basic obligations, you could still be responsible for
making your payments as contracted.
Your best protection
is to get a trustworthy, reliable attorney, and title insurance. In
the Dominican Republic, as in many Latin American and European countries,
the government provides title insurance. Unfortunately, this governmental
arm is not known for its solvency, so seek out a private insurer like First
American Title Insurance.
One of the
least expensive ways to experience the Dominican Republic is to
check in to one of the amazingly inexpensive all-inclusive resorts on the
island. During our trip, we stayed in all-inclusives at Casa de Campo,
near La Romana, and at Puerto Plata and Punta Cana. Most will want you
to strike a week-long package deal, but without too much haggling, they
will sell you a night or two at a time.
Our stays averaged
$40 per person per night (a decent room in one instance, and extraordinary
accommodation in the other two locations), including all we could eat
and drink (in our case, that’s a lot). The food was surprisingly
good—buffet-style for breakfast and lunch, and fine evening dining in candle-lit
restaurants with attentive staff and great chefs.
The local rum
rivals any you will find elsewhere in the Caribbean. There is a healthy
rivalry between the Dominican Republic and Cuba when it comes to cigars
and rum…my money is on the D.R. We toured a cigar-making factory and a
rum distillery during our visit. We’re not smokers but we did buy our fill
of well-aged, smooth dark rum.
But like
the rum, our visit to the Dominican Republic didn’t last long enough. I
can’t wait to return.
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