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The French are a race of contradictions. They are high tech (think Airbus, computers and a thriving car industry) but are resolute in their protection of a medieval farming industry. They are intensely proud of their nation (every Frenchman believes deep-down that France is the centre of the civilized world) but feel powerless to take on their politicians and therefore criticize and complain in an almost pathological way about their country. And in a world obsessed with globalization they remain stubbornly regional and refuse in ever growing numbers to travel to other countries, probably because they feel they don’t have to. As a pragmatic Anglo-Saxon I’ve always been quietly envious of the robust belief and love the French have for their own country. They believe they have the best lifestyle in the world and they are not going to apologize for it. The contradictions of - diet and health, hubris and generosity, low and high tech are part of the reason we love the place. For the French it’s all about lifestyle and moderation. Why should you work too hard when you can have a three-hour lunch surrounded by friends and family? Why shouldn’t a country be modern and high tech, but vehemently protect its old farmers and regional produce. To the average Frenchman this is completely logical and much more in tune with living the “good-life” than our manic obsession with work achievement, consumption and the bottom-line. Simply put, the French attitude is “don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater” - sure, change is good but don’t do it just for the sake of it. Take it slow and maintain and protect the best bits. An uncomplicated philosophy but one that obviously works. This is why France, still the largest tourist destination in the world, is a place of such contrast and interest and this becomes even more apparent in the South. The French Riviera has it all - and every month thousands of people from all over the world are buying their dream home on the Cote d’Azur as they realize that for such a compact region there is something for everyone here. The first myth to dispel about the South of France is its perception as a playground for the world’s wealthy. Once again a paradox. It’s true there is an enormous amount of wealth on the Riviera and mile for mile this is probably the most star studded, expensive place in the world but conversely the vast majority of real estate buyers on the Riviera spend, on average just 180,000 euros on an apartment near the beach. These are mostly normal working men and women who have taken a leap of faith to buy into the lifestyle and very few regret the decision. This is most evident in Nice, the capital of the Riviera, where the real estate is still relatively inexpensive and access is easy and cheap through the regions only true international airport. Unlike many other resort areas in Europe, the contradictions and diversity are what makes the Riviera special. A family on a caravan site holiday near St. Tropez can easily be enjoying an afternoon on the beach or in a relaxing sun drenched bar with a rock star or an equities millionaire. It’s that lifestyle thing; different peoples, different cultures and different budgets co-exist harmoniously. Nobody really cares where you come from (except for the occasional snooty restaurant maitre d’) or how much you’re worth as long as you’re enjoying yourself. When Michael Furness from the North of England purchased a small apartment in the Old Town of Nice in 2004 it was partly because of ease of access from the UK but mainly because of the opportunities for a varied and interesting lifestyle. Michael who works in internet marketing says, “for young people the Riviera is unrivalled as a place of pleasure and adventure.” Michael had a very small budget when he came to Nice looking for his dream bolt-hole and managed to find a small studio in the heart of Nice’s romantic Old Town for 80,000 euros. Michael says, “My purchase opened up a world of possibilities and with the main bus station for the region a three minute walk from my front door I can be on the beach in the morning and on the ski slopes in the afternoon”. He says the region offers such diversity that his only concern is that after nearly two years of owning property in Nice he has just begun to scrape the surface of the opportunities available to him. A keen extreme sports fan Michael regularly makes the journey to Nice’s closet ski resort, Isola2000. (www.isola2000.com) He says that the nightlife in the Old Town is also a big bonus with a multitude of restaurants, bars and clubs just minutes from his cute-as-a-button apartment. Michael says the surprising thing about the Riviera is how quickly he managed to assimilate. He has found a good mix of friends from many different nationalities who live in or near the Old Town and who share his interests, including living like a millionaire on a pauper’s budget. He says the Old Town seems to be a magnet for interesting and optimistic young people from around the world, who want to live the dream – some of them are starting small businesses and bringing a dynamism and creative energy to their adopted city that didn’t exist in the 80’s and 90’s. More about those budding entrepreneurs in a moment. Nice, rather sadly, has never been great at public relations and it’s had to overcome a chequered past that has stubbornly stuck in people’s memories. When people think of the Riviera they think Cannes, St. Tropez or Monaco but Nice is by far the most diverse city on the Cote d’Azur. Laurence Manini who runs one of the areas largest real estate companies, Palais Immobilier, (www.palaisimmobilier.com) says many of her first time clients are astounded by the cultural diversity and buzz of Nice. She says “one of the most rewarding parts of the job is seeing the change in clients after one or two days in Nice. Firstly they start to relax, then usually on their second day, after they have found a great beach club, a fabulous restaurant and a world class art gallery they ask why Nice is not traditionally seen as a great Riviera destination”. Laurence claims the usual exclamation from her clients after a couple of days in Nice is “I love this city – why didn’t I know about this earlier?” But of course more and more people are “getting it” and with a massive investment in infrastructure to improve the Nice experience, the city is experiencing a boom helped by the more than 35 flights a day arriving at Nice international airport from the UK alone. Being an unabashed (and unrepentant) hedonist most of my tourist highlights end up being based on good food, good wine, beautiful countryside, and if needs must, a little light exercise. So my list of recreational activities in the South of France are an individual odyssey of, I hope, the interesting and different. The first question everybody asks is “why Nice?” Well the answer is fairly obvious. The wonderful Belle Époque architecture, a vibrant cosmopolitan city on the beach, fantastic Mediterranean cuisine at a fraction of UK or American prices, being less than an hour’s drive from Monaco, Antibes, Cannes and the Italian border and for those looking to buy, relatively inexpensive real estate. Oh, and of course, the endless supply of sunshine. Now that’s the obvious attractions but if you spend the time to dig a bit deeper you will discover another Riviera that very few experience. Public transport in France is amazing – clean, efficient and on time so if you wish to get away from the coast for a day or two, one of the more remarkable trips from Nice is to catch the small single track railway from Nice’s central railway station into the mountains with your final destination being the staggeringly beautiful hill town of Breil-sur-Roya (www.marie-breil-sur-roya.fr) This stone village deep in the Mercantour national park sits around a lake that was formed millions of years ago when a volcanic crater collapsed and formed a natural amphitheatre. The train slowly chugs into the mountains through a myriad of tunnels in an area awash with wonderful wildlife, precipitous views and great walking trails and after a day of exercise in this beautiful environment a meal at the restaurant Le Dauphin on the Boulevard Rouvier rounds out a perfect day before the trip back to Nice. Or if you wish to stay overnight there is any number of good inexpensive gites and hotels to stay in. Back in Nice and you may well be in the mood to indulge yourself with a relaxing afternoon sitting around a pool sipping the odd cocktail. The best place for this is the newly renovated Palais Mediterranee Hotel on the beach close to the Old Town. The bar with a sun-drenched outside terrace with pool is open to the public and is a delightful way of wiling away a few hours with friends away from the mayhem of the beaches and tourist spots. The façade of the Palais is a listed art-deco monument and if you have a weakness for the tables there is a casino on the ground floor. (www.lepalaisdelamediterranee.com) Next morning you’ll be ravenous and looking for a good breakfast and one of the best breakfast bars in the city enjoyed by many locals is the Pain Quotidien by the flower market in the Old Town. They serve up large bowls of steaming coffee with freshly baked croissant and for a few extra calories their tarte aux framboises is to die for. One of Nice’s
great claims to fame is the number and quality of its cultural pursuits.
This city houses the largest number of art galleries outside of Paris and
also has its own opera company based in the stunning Belle Époque
opera house in the Old Town. Continues
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