The Italian Lake District
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The Italian Lake District
By Lisa Abdolian
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Bob and Vicki Kaiser were living in what many would consider paradise when they visited the Italian Lake District and fell in love with the place. After some deliberation, the couple sold their home in Kauai, Hawaii and bought an apartment in a renovated 17th century villa between lake Como and Lake Lugano in northern Italy.

According to Bob Kaiser it was the best move they have ever made.

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“We opened a new chapter in our lives and it’s been great, we love it here,” he said. “It isn’t easy, it’s humbling to learn a new language and difficult to express who you are when you can’t communicate well. But we love the intimacy of the Italian lakes and we love the Italian culture. Our neighbors have been very welcoming and it is just a great life.”

The Lake District is one of the most romantic places in Italy. Surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains, the deep glacial lakes provide an oasis of calm and serenity. Hillsides are covered with olive groves, lemon trees or date palms and banana trees. Rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and an assortment of wildflowers provide colourful additions to the green hills in the summertime.

The three largest lakes are Garda, Como and Maggiore. Each has a distinctly different flavor and appeal. Quaint villages with narrow winding streets and local specialties products are scattered around the lakes. And despite recent purchases by celebrities such as George Clooney and Richard Gere, the district has retained a small-village feel. Most travel books mention the Lake District only in passing.

Those who saw the film Ocean’s 11 were treated to a glimpse of Clooney’s posh Lake Como house and the stunning views from his terrace. The simplicity of life in the area is exemplified by the welcome Clooney received by locals. He was happily embraced as a member of the community without fuss. He only clashed with long-time residents when his celebrity status began to bring unwanted attention to the quiet village near his home. They were also riled when he tried to buy the local public beach. His attempt to alter the community’s access to the lake caused so much fury that he pledged to maintain it and to keep it open to the public.
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“It is a different life than in the U.S., much simpler in many ways,” Bob Kaiser says. “George Clooney lives here and there are some very large mansions. But compared to Americans, most Italians don’t have as much and they live simpler lives. Their cars are smaller, most of their homes are not as big, but they are proud of what they have and they keep it tidy.” 

Of course intimacy and proximity to George Clooney comes with a price. On average, property costs between 2,000 and 5,000 euros per square meter, depending on the location. 

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Lake views command a higher price. It is possible to find a two-bedroom apartment for around 180,000 euros, but a nice condo with lake access in a popular area costs closer to 250,000 euros. Villas are difficult to find and are expensive. It is unlikely you would find a house for less than 500,000 in the area. 

It is not difficult for foreigners to purchase property in Italy, but hiring a qualified real estate agent is recommended. It is also advisable to carefully search for a notary to represent your interests. 

Ralf Koklar has sold property in the Lake District for more than 20 years. He recommends that buyers hire a notary located two or three towns away from the property of interest.

“The buyer has to be very careful that there is not a conflict between the notary and the property owner,” he said. “Find notary in a different town. That doesn’t mean you have to go to Milan, but go 20 kilometers away and ask very specific questions. If you don’t speak Italian, go with someone who does.”

According to Koklar the notary will check for future development slated for the area and issues that might devalue the property. Notary fees are between 2 and 4 percent of the sale price and real estate fees are around 3 to 5 percent. Most agents will help secure a tax identification number (codice fiscale) for their clients. A codice fiscale is extremely important and is required for nearly every business transaction in Italy. Additionally, buyers must pay a value added tax of 10 percent on non-luxury property and 20 percent for the higher end homes.

Koklar also recommends asking the local tax office or an accountant commercialiste for the “Valore Castale” (property value). The Valore Castale may be very different from the sale price, but it will provide information about the annual property tax rendered on the property, he said.

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When purchasing property in the Lake District, be aware of unanticipated hidden costs. For example, the Kaisers discovered that while the winters are mild in their new hometown, their apartment is not well insulated and is expensive to heat. 

“They use propane to heat here and it’s quite expensive. It’s not like in the U.S. where you heat every room all the time,” he said. “If we heated the whole house to say 72 degrees full-time it would cost about 800 euros a month. Instead, we heat some rooms, but not all and it costs us about 200-300 euros a month.” Space heaters warm in the rooms they don’t heat.

Additionally, the move from the U.S. to Italy was not easy. The couple spent a few years shuttling back and forth from the U.S. to Italy before they were able to settle visa requirements and obtain full-time permanent residency. 

“There is a lot of bureaucracy you have to deal with,” he said. “You really have to be sure that you want to do it. If you’re sure it’s the right move for you, then it is worth the time and energy.”

In order to become a permanent resident of Italy, you must obtain a certificate of good conduct. Americans must submit fingerprints to the FBI for a certificate of good conduct and then apply for residency through an American consulate. 

The Italian government also requires proof that you can support yourself and that you have a place to live in the country. A lease or property title is sufficient.

Then there are other less pressing issues to consider -- such as the need to obtain an Italian driver’s license (tests are given in Italian) within a year of receiving permanent residency.

“I just passed the test and it was like being a teen-ager again,” Kaiser said. “It cost 600 euro because you are required to attend lessons and you have to speak Italian so you can understand the classes. Driving around here is really difficult. The roads are narrow and winding and you come across everything imaginable – women pushing baby carriages, trucks, motorcycles, and people on bicycles. You never know what’s around the next turn.”

In terms of the cost of living, the Kaiser’s say food and supplies are less expensive than they thought they would be. They eat well on a budget of about 320 euros a month. 
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For comparison purposes here is an idea of prices in the Lake District:

Electric: About 13.5 euro cents per kilowatt-hour. On average the monthly electric bill a two-bedroom apartment is 50-60 euros.
Bread: Between 1.50 and 4 euros.
Wine: Filling a bottle at the local cantina: 1.50 euros. A nice bottle of Chianti: 4 euros
A good meal in a restaurant: Around 25 euros with wine. 
Pizza: 6 euros.
Financial Times newspaper: 2.25 euros

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Deciding which lake you want to live near is a personal decision that should be made with care. The Kaiser’s chose a location with relatively few ex-pats nearby. There are other communities that are filled with native English-speakers, Germans and Swiss. If possible spend a few months visiting the area before making a purchase. A two-week vacation in the Lake District is very different than settling there. Vacations tend to provide romanticized visions of a perfect life without the reality of day-to-day hassles.

Still, Kaiser says that while “living here has been very humbling and character-building it is worth it. We have made friends; we play tennis, hike and enjoy exploring the area. Lugano Switzerland is about 30 minutes away. We have made some English-speaking friends and we enjoy playing tennis. Even in the winter the sun is shining and it’s warm enough to play tennis.”

While the couple visits the U.S. often, he says “when we visit the U.S. we miss it here and can’t wait to come back. It’s really become our home.”
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The Kaiser’s have an excellent website with information about the Lake District www.italianlakes.com
All pictures were provided by Ralf Koklar, International Real Estate Services www.lugano-properties.com
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