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Down To Earth Living - The Cave Houses Of Southern Spain
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Down To Earth Living
The Cave Houses Of Southern Spain
By Charles Leary and Vaughn Perret 
Cave dwellers, far from being Neanderthals, may be the smartest beings on earth. Life protected from the elements by caves has persisted as a form of human existence for millennia, and goes on to this day in places such as Turkey, Tunisia, Afghanistan, Morocco, Italy, and France. In southern Spain, however, cave homes are man made, and not natural formations that humans simply moved into. Some of the very earliest names for the city of Granada refer to its cave dwellings. In nearby Benalua, a suburb of Guadix, everyone lives in a cave, just as in the gypsy quarter of Sacromonte. There are cave theaters, cave hotels, cave restaurants, cave spas, and of course, cave houses, known in Spanish as casas cueva. At the other end of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain too, near Almeria but still in Granada Province, cave dwelling has existed at least since the Arab invasion of Iberia in the 8th century. Granada Province has the largest cave dwelling population in Europe.
Here cave buildings do not, as might be expected, exist inside natural rock formations, like at Capadoccia in Turkey or the Tarn Gorge in France. Instead, they are intentional dwelling spaces carved out of hard clay and earth. Buying, refurbishing, or creating a new cave house represents the ultimate in efficient and sustainable living--though please be advised that we would not suggest building a cave house outside of regions where it is common practice and the structural integrity of the earth is well known. 
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In Granada, the ancient cave dwelling area extends far beyond the contemporary city, into the hills and ravines of San Miguel Park, where some squatters still live, laying claim to caves without running water or electricity and living rent-free.
In southern Spain, cave houses naturally maintain a steady temperature of around 19-20 degrees centigrade year round. This is quite exceptional in a montane climate like Granada City where summertime temperatures surpass 40 degrees and where it occasionally snows in winter.

Building a cave dwelling is relatively inexpensive (though not necessarily cheap),  cave houses can have all the amenities of a regular house (and more), electricity, plumbing, and HVAC are easy to install, and cave houses remain dry and habitable with normal ventilation, unlike many stone caves that can store dampness.

Even those with claustrophobia find modern cave houses quite comfortable.

After becoming accustomed to cave living, it is soothing to return to a home with the solidity of the earth and the silence of a church.

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In Granada, the most geographically diverse province in the Iberian Peninsula, there exist distinct concentrations of cave settlement, notably in the historic Albaycin and Sacromonte neighborhoods of Granada City, in Guadix, on the other side of the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, and in the more mountainous region of Baza. The Albaycin and Sacromonte are adjacent hillside neighborhoods, both of which form part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Alhambra Palace. They are ancient settlements, with cave dwelling existing at least back to Arab times, well before the 15th century. Guadix and Baza are similarly ancient cities. One likely historical explanation of cave building is that the Arabs brought the tradition with them from the troglodyte abodes of North Africa, starting in the early 700s. The total cave-dwelling population of the three areas runs into the tens of thousands.

Some cave houses are extremely large, having up to ten or more rooms. Here there are specialists in cave construction, renovation, and expansion.

Natural light can be provided not only from doors and/or windows facing the outside, but also by light ducts through holes that can be created by modern well-drilling rigs.

Such light traps usually have convex Plexiglas covers and reflective ducting that capture and transmit the maximum amount of natural light deep into a cave house.

A whitewashed cave interior also reflects more light throughout the interior space than one might think. Caves can even accommodate a fireplace, provided that it is placed relatively near the outside wall of the cave thus keeping chimney construction manageable. Built-in bathtubs, toilet alcoves, and closets are a snap for any experienced cave builder.

Cave homes have deeds and are protected by normal property rights in Spain. What happens if you transcend property boundaries or accidentally run into someone else's cave is not clear cut in the law. This is generally only a concern in areas with a high cave house density. Older, historic caves seem to have grandfathered rights, whether or not they penetrate beneath the lands of others.

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Considerations in Cave Construction

We would strongly recommend using a professional builder for any cave creation or renovation. Finding a cave builder is not always easy, though in areas with large concentrations of cave dwellings it is not hard. Anyone considering building an earthen cave dwelling themselves should spend some time in Granada or elsewhere studying cave construction. Cave hotels, apartment rentals, and flamenco night clubs (tablaos) are common in most areas.

One large problem encountered in cave construction in an urban environment is disposal of the excess earth created during excavation. Such cases require hiring a container and dump truck company to haul away up to hundreds of loads of clay, which can be expensive. This problem is compounded by the fact that naturally-compacted clay expands in volume by three to four times once excavated.

Beyond the earth disposal problem, cave construction is not for the indecisive. Unlike conventional construction techniques, you cannot go back and fix something. Holes, even doorways, can be filled in, but the basic size and shape of a room cannot be easily changed, and can never be put back or shrunk. Rooms can usually be made bigger; ceilings can be made higher; but not visa versa. Don't be afraid to have high ceilings in a cave--it costs almost nothing and makes rooms more livable and interesting. (Remember that once flooring is added, you will loose three to four inches of ceiling height.)

There should be a minimum of three meters of untouched compacted earth above the "ceiling" to prevent water intrusion and keep structural stability. Do not plant trees above your cave home! Grass and small shrubs are fine, but any plants with long roots will lead water down through the ceiling. Ideally, there should be a meter of wall thickness between cave rooms or adjacent caves. These walls can be penetrated by doorways and windows without negative consequences. All ceilings and doorways should be arched or domed, also for structural reasons. Doors should be constructed to allow ventilation and the free flow of air throughout the cave. Fresh air ducts to the more interior of cave rooms is advisable. Some choose to build reinforcing ceiling arches out of masonry for complete peace of mind. We have seen huge, two-story cave projects where the cave itself is dug out with large machinery, such as a backhoe. Today, in California wine country, they do the same to create cost-efficient wine storage for major wineries. Most cave houses, however, were in the past hand dug and these days are created using hydraulic or pneumatic hammers (like small jackhammers) backed up by shovel, pick, wheelbarrow and back-breaking work.

In terms of building codes and municipal planning, cave homes or other structures do not exist. They fail to meet code requirements written around brick & mortar or wood frame construction, and even in Granada, bureaucrats will tell you that "officially" no one should be sleeping in a cave dwelling. This is despite the fact that thousands of people do so every day. In France and Italy, the governments in the 20th century forced cave dwellers to move out, though now these areas are being repopulated. In Spain, the government continued to allow cave living, and both cave neighborhoods of Granada are protected historic areas. The failure to officially recognize the existence of cave houses and businesses does not prevent the municipality from issuing permits for cave "rehabilitation," though in Granada City, no completely new cave dwellings are supposed to be built.

We know of one "rehabilitation" permit that turned what was a single primary room with two much smaller adjacent rooms into a two-bedroom, one full-bath house with a large living room and two entry doors. What was a cave closet became a very spacious kitchen pantry with counter space and wine storage built into the cave wall. In other words, major cave expansion can be done using the permit as a cover. This is common practice in the Albaycin and Sacromonte. Many houses in the upper part of the Albaycin district have cave dwellings attached, and when gentrification occurs, new owners usually want larger and nicer caves. In other parts of Granada Province such as Baza, Galera, and Guadix, cave building is much less restricted, and even new construction is officially condoned.

Many cave houses have a small outer part of the house built with conventional construction. This protects the cave entrance and provides extra space. Services such as electricity and water can also enter here. Alternatively, there can simply be a doorway into the earth, usually with a brick frame and a door of decorative wrought iron, to allow as much light as possible into the cave.

The fact that cave homes have been continually occupied in Granada for at least 500 years, and almost certainly for 1,200 years or longer, is reassuring to those who worry about safety. Caves survive earthquakes and fires. They can also be reinforced. Caves do need to be cared for in order to endure. A closed-up cave, or one where the walls and other surfaces are covered with impermeable materials will result in problems: falling earth, crumbling walls, and possible collapse. This is due to the accumulation of excess moisture, which causes instability in the soil structure. A cave that can breathe is a healthy and safe cave.

We do not recommend placing gas appliances or piping inside caves, for obvious reasons. Plumbing must be laid carefully and tested thoroughly. Bathroom can be put at the most interior part of a cave house without incident, but always bear in mind that water is an earth cave's worst enemy. We recommend installing floor drains to draw away any leaking or excess water (think of a plugged toilet) and perhaps even double piping supply lines--i.e. putting one water tight line inside another in case of leaks or breakage.

Electrical wires run inside conduit that is placed inside channels carved into cave walls or floors. These channels are then covered with a thin coat of the same stucco used to coat the walls, and become invisible. Junction and breaker boxes can likewise be placed in carved out spaces in the cave wall.

In all, the practical requirements of cave construction are simple, efficient, and straightforward, while the creative possibilities are near limitless.

Cave Mania

One cave artist is Pepe "Cuevas" Ruiz, who lives in a cave in Benalua, and is the preeminent cave builder in Granada province. Pepe is crazy for caves. He loves them, and will regale you for hours with the advantages and spiritual significance of cave living. He will smell the earth, analyze the lay of the land, and investigate old caves with enthusiasm. He is a true sculptor, and has probably built and remodeled more caves than anyone else in Spain. In his home town, cave living is the norm, with some caves literally lying on top of one another. Pepe has been on Spanish television and interviewed by major newspapers. A bit eccentric, his well-founded, almost feverish passion for cave dwellings is contagious... and spreading fast.

There are now cave home developments near Almeria, selling turn-key cave homes for around 90,000 euros a piece, and in Granada City, cave homes are becoming something sought after by the numerous wealthy Spaniards and foreigners moving into the historic district. Within the past years, several major British newspapers have published articles on cave living in Spain. In Baza, an entrepreneurial venture has turned caves into a hotel with bath house and spa--it's like having a swimming pool inside your cave (remember our advice about water and earth caves)! Sacromonte now hosts a cave museum that demonstrates traditional methods of cave living followed by the gypsies in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. If you venture out for a flamenco show in Granada, it will most likely be in a cave, and cave hotels and vacation rentals are easy to locate.

Old cave houses in the Granada countryside can still be found for a relatively small investment. Last year, old cave houses in need of renovation were on the market in Granada's pricey Albaycin district for 30,000 to 50,000 euros on small lots with no conventional buildings and no Alhambra views. For finished cave houses, expect to pay eighty to two-hundred thousand euros, depending on the adjoining land that goes with the cave, the views, etc. There are currently cave houses with land advertised for as high as 900,000 euros, with Alhambra views, though we regard this price as extraordinary. Given the real estate market in Spain, prices will continue to go up. You can also explore areas such as Guadix and either buy existing cave homes or buy land and build, with the latter option probably presenting the best value if you discover a good site.

In choosing a cave builder, search for someone who lives in a cave him or herself. Look at their previous work--Pepe, for one, will be glad to tour you around Guadix looking at cave homes he has built or renovated to get ideas. He or she should have advice on finishes, ideas about room numbers and size, soil type, layout, and ease of excavation, and be able to give a definite price range and timetable for your project. Ask for references, and talk with other experienced cave dwellers.

We rehabilitated one cave house for about 36,000 to 40,000 euros This price did not include purchasing the land. About 18,000 euros went to Pepe, the cave builder, who worked with a crew of 5 men for about three weeks. The rest went into hauling away the excess soil (something that those outside of an urban setting can avoid), electrical, plumbing, ventilation, bathroom finishes, and a handmade terra cotta tile floor. Given its advantages, cave construction is cost effective--think of the tiny or non-existent heating and air conditioning bills alone. In an area with lower land prices than Granada City, cave dwellings can be purchased at very affordable prices and rehabilitated inexpensively, especially if the owner is willing to do some of the work.

Web Sites of Interest:

Cave Hotels & Rentals, Spain
http://www.rusticblue.com/cave.htm -
http://www.cuevasmedinaceli.com/ -
http://goeurope.about.com/od/cavehouses/ -

Cave Hammam
http://www.aljatib.com/ -

Cave Houses for Sale
http://www.almerisol-info.com/salerent/property4sale/almeriaproperty/cavehouses/cavehomes.htm -
http://www.spanish-inland-properties.com/cavehomes.html -

Wine Caves in California
http://www.novusvinum.com/features/winecountrycaves.html -

Flamenco Caves
http://granadainfo.com/canastera/cuevascanasten.htm -

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