Exciting Real Estate Opportunities In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
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Exciting Real Estate Opportunities In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
By Roger Gallo
Rio de Janeiro! The plane lifted off from Sao Paulo in total darkness for its final leg into Rio de Janeiro.  We came up out of the darkness into high morning sunlight and my spirits soared. Too many years had passed since I'd last seen my favorite city.  There is much that I like about Rio; its people, their music, the exotic ambiance of the place, the almost other worldly beauty, the beaches, the sharp mountains and hills that loom up like concertos out of the landscape, the constant ocean breezes, the California-like atmosphere, the royal imperial palms, tree lined streets, restaurants strung along Avenita Atlantica, the women who are like no other, Corcovado, the jazz clubs, samba, the style of the Carioca, Jardim Botanico, Ipanema, Copacabana - more than I could ever say in words, even though superlatives abound.
The seaman Paul Guaguin saw Rio de Janeiro from the deck of a ship and decided to become an artist. We first saw Rio de Janeiro in 1981 and fell it in love with it. Time has passed, but here we are again. The microphone clicks on, the flight attendant tells us the time, it's 6 AM, June the 7th.  We are to place all carry-on bags under the seat or in the overhead compartment, we are to move our chairs into an upright position and fasten our seat belts. We are informed that we are about to land at Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport, where the temperature is 79 degrees, and that we are bid welcome to Rio de Janeiro.
 
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'Thank you,' I say to no one in particular; as I look out the window at the city below  '...I'm happy to be home again.'

Here I was back in Rio, just about to make the startling discovery that I could finally afford to live here, here in my favorite city, and beyond that, that I could actually live here cheaper than I could live anywhere else I wanted to live, and more than that, the most startling discovery of all....   that I could buy an ocean view apartment for the amazing price of only $25,000.

My purpose for the trip was to research the real estate conditions in Rio de Janeiro for this magazine. For this purpose I wanted a central location to work from, so I had picked a hotel in Copacabana where I could take exploratory trips in every direction and do an analysis of each of the better neighborhoods for prices and living conditions.  As I've already more or less implied, I was in for a number of pleasant surprises.

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After checking into my hotel I had an excellent lunch at the Siqueira Grill in Copacabana. Just before going to lunch I had exchanged some dollars into the Brazilian Real at 2.41 Real's for the dollar. The meal was enormous, steak, sausages, grilled chicken livers, quail eggs, beets, bean salad, three different cheeses, creamed spinach, various vegetables plus other odds and ends, all washed down with a half dozen Brazilian Pilsner's.

If I could have eaten more I would have, as the menu was endless, all cooked in the Churrasco style.  There was a wide assortment of deserts that would have done justice to the finest French restaurant, there was also fresh fruit, espresso, juices, and anything the imagination might consider.  When I went to pay the bill it came to a little more than 10 Real (BRL).  Obviously something was wrong.  I walked outside and sat down at a bench on the beach and pulled out my calculator.  I had paid about $2.50 for a $15 to $20 meal, how could this be? In an instant it struck me what had occurred.  The price in the restaurant were pegged to the Real, and the Real was being treated as if it were still being pegged to the dollar on a one to one exchange ratio.

In other words, to the restaurant they had just charged me $10 for a meal, but due to the exchange rate I'd gotten it for only $2.50. In a fit of excitement I rushed over and bought a copy of El Globo, Rio's major newspaper. I turned to the Real Estate section and my excitement was confirmed.  Apartments were for sale in Copacabana for BRL60,000 - or, US$24,896. I could buy an apartment in the world's most exciting city for $25,000 - I knew in an instant that I'd hit the jackpot. For more on buying smart using Currency Exchange differences see ABC's Of Exchange Controls, International Real Estate & Foreign Currencies - Click Here to read ABC's Of Exchange Controls, International Real Estate & Foreign Currencies - In this issue.

Tall And Tan

Rio is eleven miles long - and in most of the best neighborhoods not much more than a half mile to a mile wide.

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To explain this odd anomaly, consider that Rio is a city pressed between a steep mountain and the ocean. The city is long and narrow. The best neighborhoods for anyone wanting go buy real estate are Flamengo, Jardim Botanico, Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana, Lagoa and Santa Teresa.  My favorites have always been Flamengo and Santa Teresa. Flamengo would appeal to most readers, but Santa Teresa will only appeal to the more adventuresome.

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa, one of Rio's oldest neighborhoods, was built on the lower and middle slopes of Corcovado mountain to escape the heat and humidity of the low lands. Therefore, it offers majestic views of the harbor, P?o de A??car (Sugar Loaf,) and the surrounding hills some of which contain favelas. Santa Teresa is the Bohemian section of Rio de Janeiro, filled with artists, expatriates, writers and some international fugitives. It was the home of the famous British train robber Ronnie Biggs, a long time fugitive from British justice.  It is nestled within a set of hills above the center of the city. Picturesque and village-like, it it is filled with vividly painted turn-of-the-century houses; spectacular views of downtown, Guanabara Bay, Sugar Loaf, and Corcovado; and it hosts several cozy restaurants and bars; plus the famous antique bonde (streetcar) that clatters its way through the winding cobblestoned streets.

Prices In Santa Teresa

I visited Santa Teresa first, and found its streets were romantic and peaceful.  Of all the areas described in the this article, Santa Teresa is the only area which still has some remnants of Rio's crime problem. Caveat Emptor!  During the day it is a very peaceful neighborhood, but at night people from the surrounding favelas are said to enter the area and can be a source of crime.  Rio's crime problem is less than a third what it was a few years ago, and in most ot the areas I visited the crime problem has been almost totally eliminated.  Santa Teresa is going to appeal more to artist types than to those seeking a luxury apartment.

If you are an artist type, it is very probable that you are going to want to live in Santa Teresa. The buildings are older and there are not as many available as in other areas of the city, hence prices in Santa Teresa are more difficult to write about.  I saw a store front with an apartment behind priced at BRL80,000 = US$33,200 - It would have made a good coffee house, small gallery, architects office, or display space for photography. I also saw a three BR, two bath condominium in a newer building for - BRL110,000 = US$45,643 - it did not have the ambiance of the older buildings, but it was more than acceptable.  Those wanting something in the Santa Teresa district are going to have to pound the pavements and do some searching.  Not so for the other areas I am about to describe.  The reason for this is that the choice properties in Santa Teresa are older, separate, free standing structures that are not part of the mainstream real estate market.  I admit that it is high on my list of preferable areas, because of it's unique ambiance and artistic feel.  My guess is that a desirable older house is going to cost me around $US75,000 - a price I feel comfortable with, as prices in this area were around $150,000 to $US200,000 just a few years ago and will probably go back to that price again when the currency problems are resolved.

Flamengo - An Area Reborn

Another of my favorite neighborhoods is Flamengo, and area where I lived for several months some years back.  There has been a tremendous resurgence in the Flamengo district, especially in the classy waterfront area.  This area has many older beautiful buildings, sporting excellent architect (see photos next page) without any of the crime problems of Santa Teresa. Look at these prices:

  • Classic Building - Excellent view - large living room, ample kitchen, 2 BR, 3 baths, maids quarters, garage. BRL120,000 = US$49,800
  • Flamengo Beach Studio Apartment - large kitchen, bath, view. BRL51,000 = US$21,150
  • Magnificent Location - living room, den, 2 BR, furnished kitchen, facing park, garage. BRL148,000 = US$61,4000
  • Near Botofogo Beach - View of P?o de A??car, 3 BR, living room with view, patio balcony, 2 baths. BRL150,000 = US$62,450
  • Panoramic 180 degree view - cinematographic vista of sea and P?o de A??car, 4 BR, 3 baths, maids quarters, luxurious fixtures and kitchen amenities, double garage, two full verandahs. BRL320,000 = US$132,800.
There are countless more.  I could list a full webpage of Flamengo properties with prices just like this.  Imagine, a beach front studio apartment in Rio de Janeiro for $21,000!  -  Note that beach front in Flamengo doesn't mean directly on the beach. There is a park between the beach and the residential area, but what a park!  Jogging trails, museums, picnic areas, exercise areas, and other recreational facilities. Flamengo does not have the flash of Copacabana; what it does have is a great deal of quiet charm.

More about Flamengo and other areas of Rio on the next page ~ C L I C K   H E R E There is More about real estate in Flamengo and other areas of Rio de Janeiro on the next page -

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