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The boating lifestyle is not for everyone. But for some, it’s the goal of a lifetime to sail into the sunset. Nautical dreamers often wind up at one time or another in Guatemala, whether to explore the beautiful Río Dulce area or to hide out from storms during hurricane season. Sharon and “Big Al” sailed around the Caribbean Island chain for years, and one fine day seven years ago entered the Río Dulce. Sharon recalls being “immediately smitten by the people, the Guatemalan work ethic and the beauty of the country.” They decided they had to return, and on a repeat trip through the Bay Islands of Honduras and the Belize Cays, they safe-havened one stormy season in the Río Dulce.

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 “The Río is a place to take a nice vacation. It’s wonderful for water sports. The river is gorgeous. There's beautiful flora and fauna, and you have the feeling of being on the edge of a jungle.”

It’s also a safe haven from dangerous Caribbean storms. “The mountains are high along the coast and through the river, leading to the Golfete and Lake Isabal. You can snake up river, protected and out of danger.”

There are about 200 boats on the river at high season. At that time people work on their vessels or travel through Guatemala or to North America and Europe. Sharon says, “You can leave your boat here, and know it’s protected, which is not true of docking facilities off many other countries and islands.”

There are three operating marinas available for dockage. But Sharon and Big Al stay at a private family-run dock/restaurant/hotel called “Rosita’s.”
Formalities... 

At the river, you’ll need to go through customs, get a cruising permit which is good for 3 months, and can be extended for another 9 months. It costs approximately Q300 ($46) to pay immigration and customs fees. Sharon says,  “We’ve always found the officials to be helpful and friendly.”

“You can dock your boat here for less than you would pay in Cancun or Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Your range of expenses will vary depending on your lifestyle. You can live on $200 or $2,000 per month. You could also live out “on the hook,” at anchor, which is very inexpensive.”

A Retirement Option?...

The Río Dulce is not generally regarded as a place to retire. “That’s because property is pricey. Most people on the river are living on boats. They come and go.” But, having fallen in love with Guatemala and it’s people, Sharon and Big Al decided to stay and build a house boat. Due to the heat and humidity in the Río Dulce area, they felt that a house boat would give them more wide open breezes and the ability to enjoy the beauty of nature.

“We don’t cruise any more. We spend more time on land in Guatemala. With age and the number of years at sea, your priorities change. Sailing is hard work. And it’s costly to keep a boat up. It takes a lot of energy.”

Lifestyles - Estilo de Vida...

To get around on the lake, since there are no roads, everyone uses launches. At the village at Fronteras there are shuttles, cars and busses. Sharon and Al have a Blazer, which they use to take off to Guatemala City or Antigua, a good escape during the HOT months.“We don’t recommend the months April, May and June for being on the river. There’s a change in the trade winds at that time  which causes a stillness in the air.”

So What is the Boating Crowd REALLY Like?

 “The boaters you meet are a special group, with a variety of backgrounds. The differences among friendships appeals to me. Friendships are not cosmetic. Cruisers are independent, they enjoy these differences. This is true of the cruising lifestyle and of living in Guatemala.

What to do for Fun?

 “We don’t need entertainment. We enjoy life as it is, where it is. The colors of Guatemala fill your eyes with variety of visuals every day.” Sharon writes, but just for personal enjoyment.

“...Like Going Back in Time.”

 “This is a wholesome lifestyle which runs at a very pleasant pace. It reminds me of when I used to visit my grandmother. She never wore a watch.
 “Here, there’s a bombardment of physical visuals and simplicity, ...simplistic manual labors. You’re connected and closer to nature.”

Practical Considerations

 “In the last three years, the progress in communications has been tremendous. There used to be two phones in Fronteras. You would have to wait two hours. In a storm, the lines would go dead. But in the past seven years, there have come on line two offices with satellite phone reception, e-mail, cellular phones, internet and fax. The roads have improved since President Arzú took office in '96. The Arzú administration should be commended for its accomplishments. Without an infrastructure of transportation and communications, the country cannot grow.”

Medical

 “We have yearly doctor visits and have found highly skilled medical care in Guatemala City, both diagnostic and treatment, with ready access. In fact, if you can’t find what you want in the City, it’s not the City that’s failing, it’s the searcher. You have to know where to look and be creative in your search. However, in the past 7 years, medicines have doubled in cost, or more. We’re lucky. Our insurance is provided by our former employers, and it pays here on a pro-rated basis.”

Couples... Harmony on the High Seas? 

Couples on Boats? “That really puts your relationship to the wall immediately. You grow up pretty quick.”